“A delightful hotel on a Tuscan hilltop, with a poetic pool and enticing views”
The 9 rooms and 2 suites are spread out amongst several rambling ivy-covered stone buildings, with lots of space and privacy for all. Each has a terrace or garden with wisteria, carefully tended flowerbeds or a stretch of lawn with a view.
Inside, rooms are unique and the attention to detail is extraordinary. Luxurious fabrics and rustic touches daringly combine; stone basins and antique mirrors were rescued and restored; little lamps and pictures carefully chosen. All share beautiful original rafters and terracotta floors.
We stayed in a Deluxe Room with chunky standing beams, a gorgeous mosaiked basin and an elegant chaise longue sprinkled with silk cushions. It was cool and dark, a perfect summer respite. For the best views, book Deluxe Room Turco, Alma or Tadema, as all have frontal views of Montepulciano across the valley. Turco's bathroom also has an attached Turkish steam bath.
Of the Standard Rooms, Aurora is brighter one, with windows on 3 sides and a private garden facing Montefollonico. Bosco has a private terrace with a view towards Montepulciano and a bedroom with light green accents.
Top of the pile are the Suites: over-the-top Montepulciano is perfect for romantics with its high ceilings, large living area and far-reaching views from the terrace. On the other hand, Nido has 360-degree views, an open fireplace and a large bathroom. All very tempting.
Lupaia’s kitchen is the heart of the hotel, a warm, inviting place with copper saucepans hanging from the ceiling, rainbow pottery, and delicious smells wafting from the oven.
Dinners are served on the lovely patio (or indoors in cooler months). A typical menu spans 4 courses; perhaps crispy crostini with chicken liver, handmade fettuccine with ragu, roast pork loin with veg, cheese from the neighbouring farm, and a dolce if you still have space. Wines come primarily from the local Montepulciano and Montalcino vineyards.
Breakfasts are a delight: fresh feasts elegantly served out on the terrace. There are homemade fruit tarts, cakes and croissants. Fruits, cheeses and cold cuts are sourced locally. Cereal and fruit are on offer too, but we went all-out on sweet indulgence and savoured every mouthful.
Light lunches are available anywhere: poolside, in the restaurant, or on any of the numerous seating areas.
If you’d prefer to eat out, nearby Montefollonico (10-minute drive) has a couple of nice places. We tried Osteria La Botte Piena, a winery and deli with a bustling little restaurant upstairs, where the local pici was fantastic. Alternatively, there's no shortage of superb restaurants in nearby Montepulciano and Pienza - ask the team for their latest recommendations.