At the foot of Calton Hill and a short walk from the Palace of Holyroodhouse, this magnificent 4-storey Georgian townhouse is the perfect base for enjoying the city sights with all the comforts of a grand home. Tucked into a historic cobbled crescent, this place exudes elegant comfort as well as a playful sense of fun - a lasting tribute to the late chef Paul Kitching, who owned and ran it (under the name "21212") with his partner Katie.
Since Paul’s passing, the venture has been handed to the team at Lyla, who run both the restaurant and the rooms with panache. The 4 intimate yet spacious rooms come with crisp bed linen, sumptuous furnishings, state-of-the-art bathrooms and dreamy views over the city rooftops. And there's an apartment too, in case you want the flexibility to self-cater. But it's the downstairs dining room which is the main draw, its chef's baton now in the creative hands of Stuart Ralston, who conjures up a delicious seafood-leaning tasting menu in a sleek, understated setting. It's a culinary journey well worth experiencing on one night during your stay - and you’ll be glad to have your own room close at hand when you roll out, happily stuffed.
Lyla Rooms
Edinburgh, United Kingdom
Highs
- The location is very central but feels quiet and residential
- The warm, relaxed service gives the sense you're staying at a friend's house
- The upstairs rooms have beautiful views over the city or back onto Calton Hill
- The fine dining restaurant downstairs is led by one of Scotland's most acclaimed chefs
- Plush beds, large baths and local bath products give it a very sophisticated and serene feel
Lows
- The rooms are undergoing a light refurb for 2026; we'll post new photos when we have them
- There is no lift and lots of stairs up to the top rooms
- Parking nearby is all metered, though it’s free overnight and all weekend
- The rooms at the front of the house can be subject to some noise from the road
- If you don't fancy the tasting menu bonanza, you don't need to dine here; it's still a great place to stay
Best time to go
Our top tips
The hotel is perfectly placed for a walk up Calton Hill at sunset. The path up is right at the end of the crescent, so pocket one of the carefully selected local refreshments in your mini-bar and in ten minutes you'll be be enjoying a tipple while gazing out over a honey-hued city.
- Boutique Hotel
- 4 rooms + 1 apartment
- Breakfast + fine-dining restaurant (Wed-Sat)
- Over 5s only, not ideal for kids
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
Rooms
There are 4 bedrooms, all generously sized and split over the 2nd and 3rd floors of the house. The numbering though, is predictably eccentric: instead of being numbered 1-4, like the hotel’s monike, they all contain 1s and 2s.
Room 1 and 12 are on the second floor, and 2 and 21 are on the third floor. Rooms 1 and 21 have street and city views while 12 and 2 look out over the garden. All have comfortable furnishings, well-stocked mini-bars, spacious built-in wardrobes, fluffy bathrobes, and Noble Isle toiletries. We stayed in Room 2, which was quiet and serene. We loved the luxurious super-kingsize bed, and waking up to a dazzling view over the garden with Calton Hill rising up behind it.
On the lower level of the house, there's a one-bedroom apartment with its own entrance and a little kitchenette, plus a sofabed for one extra guest - ideal for small families wanting more space and flexiblity.
As in the rest of the house, the rooms’ Georgian features and proportions provide a stunning backdrop for contemporary lighting and furnishings. The built-in wardrobes have everything you could need, including extra hypo-allergenic bedding and an iron. And there’s plenty of space to mooch, sleep, read or just gaze out over beautiful Edinburgh.
Features include:
- Bathrobes
- Central heating
- Hairdryer
- Iron
- Safe box
- Toiletries
- TV
- WiFi
Eating
First things first: breakfast, served on the first floor, is a simple continental affair enjoyed around a communal table. We were warmly greeted and brought coffees with our yoghurt and muesli before toast and pastries were carried in, still warm from the oven.
The main event is the superb tasting menu at Lyla Restaurant downstairs - either a 5- or 7-course lunch or 10-course dinner with an optional wine pairing alongside - which it would be a shame to miss. (Keep in mind the restaurant is closed Sun-Tues). This is the fourth addition to the string of acclaimed eateries which renowned Scottish chef Stuart Ralston has brought to Edinburgh, and it's quickly become known as one of the city's best.
It doesn't come cheap, but if you're up for a blowout meal, Lyla doesn't disappoint. We enjoyed handwhipped wild garlic butter, cured sea bream with umai caviar, Scottish langoustine, and partridge topped with truffle and dollops of elderberry jam, amongst other things. Everything was delicately prepared, expertly served, and deliciously rich but never too heavy. We found the experience unashamedly refined, artful and indulgent, but not pretentious; and when we finally finished, we were glad to have a bed and a warm bath waiting for us just up the stairs.
The hotel and restaurant share a communal bar and drawing room on the first floor, which guests are welcome to use. When the restaurant is open, you're welcome to order drinks, or bring your own from your mini-bar and enjoy them in the warm glow of the art deco lighting on plush velvet sofas.
Features include:
- Bar
- Restaurant
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- In August, Edinburgh throbs to the sounds of its famous Festival, a theatrical extravaganza. Book well in advance for a stay during this month
- Catch your breath after walking up to Arthur’s Seat - then have it taken away again by the views
- Check out the palace of Holyroodhouse, the Royal family’s Edinburgh residence, including its abbey and the Queen's Gallery, which hosts visiting exhibitions from the Royal collections
- Immerse yourself in the medieval Old Town and wander along the Royal Mile, the capital’s most historic street
- Stroll up Calton Hill, behind the hotel, and enjoy views out to the Firth of Forth
- Treat yourself to a spot of retail therapy on Princes Street
- Tickle your tastebuds with a visit to Edinburgh’s famous farmers' market on Castle Terrace on Saturday mornings
- Pop up to Edinburgh Castle to learn about the city's history, take in the views over the city, admire the Scottish Crown Jewels, and visit the National War Museum of Scotland
- Get inspired by the old masters at the National Galleries of Scotland
- Visit the National Museum of Scotland and see ancient Egyptian artefacts to modern-day innovations
- Gen up on your plant species at the Royal Botanic Gardens, and marvel at its Victorian Palm House
- There are great golf courses a short drive away
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Golf
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Museums / galleries
- Nightlife
- Plantlife / flora
- Shopping / markets
Kids
Lyla does not accept children under 5 and has no extra beds or baby cots. This isn't a place aimed at kids, but the apartment on the lower floor has a sofabed which could sleep one older child.
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Lyla is situated in the centre of Edinburgh in Scotland, a 10-minute walk from Waverley Station, Princes Street and the main shopping areas, and 5 minutes from the Edinburgh Playhouse.
By Air:
Fly into Edinburgh Airport, which is served by many domestic and international airlines. Alternatively, fly to Glasgow and drive here (1.5 hours).
From the Airport:
You can get a taxi or train from Edinburgh and Glasgow airports. Alternatively you can hire a car, or take the Edinburgh Shuttle (a door-to-door shared taxi service which is cheaper).
By Train:
Lyla is a short taxi ride from Edinburgh’s Waverley station, reachable from London and Birmingham in 4.5 hours, Glasgow in 45 minutes and York in just over 2 hours.
By Car:
Edinburgh is a great city to explore on foot so there’s no need to bring a car. There is no private car park here, so you'd need to leave your car in a city car park, or on the metered spaces opposite the hotel (free in the evenings and at weekends).
Airports:
- Edinburgh 17.0 km EDI
- Glasgow 94.0 km GLA
Other:
- Beach 12.0 km
- Shops 0.4 km
- Restaurant 0.4 km
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