“Hidden in the folds of the White Mountains, a beautifully restored settlement of 14 stone houses, with views, trails and organic food”
The rooms are spread between the scattered stone cottages of the village, and reached by cobbled steps and steep paths (bear this in mind when packing!). In some cases you get a little cottage to yourself, in others you get half a house, divided into floors or sections. But you always have your own small bathroom, either in the room or just outside, with flush toilet and simple shower. Little changed from the Cretan shepherd homes they once were, you’ll find thick, crudely-built walls, tiny windows, simple wooden or iron beds with firm mattresses, a light-it-yourself wood-burning stove (it’s chilly up here even in April), woven bedcovers and blankets, a table and bench in the larger rooms, and a few rustic tools (for decoration only – you’re not expected to till the fields!).
Most of the rooms have either twin or double beds, but there are Triple Rooms and Family Apartments available, too. All bathrooms have a handbasin, mirror and hot-water shower, powered by natural gas boilers. Eight of the rooms have fireplaces and all the others new and effective wood stoves.
You’ll probably spend more time in the communal sitting-dining room than in your bedroom – partly because it’s brighter and more spacious than the bedrooms, and partly because of the excellent home-made food and drink on offer. There is a small sound system in the restaurant with a good collection of Greek, jazz and world music .
First off, the drink: sage tea, camomile infusion, mountain tsaï (an eastern Mediterranean herb of the sideritis family, if you’re interested) and good ol’ Liptons and Nes are all freely available from a DIY honesty bar. Too healthy by half? Try a shot of raki (local grappa), clinked with true Cretan hospitality against the glasses of your hosts, and subsequently struck off your bill.
Now for the food. Seasonal vegetables, free-range eggs, healthy meat … everything is grown on site, without pesticides or fertiliser, and served fresh. On an autumn visit we enjoyed oven-baked chestnuts and potatoes with herbs, served alongside a tender joint of pork and some juicy butter beans. In spring we tasted boiled horta (like dandelions), paschal roast lamb with crisp-sautéd spuds and crunchy salad. There's a mean chocolate cake to round the meal off.
A word of warning: as everything is grown locally or brought in from Chania, you should give plenty of warning about any special dietary requirements you may have.
An ideal getaway for nature-loving children, who can splash in rivers, climb rocky outcrops and say hello to the animals.
Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Family Apartments sleep 4 in 2 bedrooms, the Triple rooms and Suites could also work for families.
Babysitting available by arrangement.
Baby cots available on request.
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking