Rectoria de Regencos

near Begur, Catalonia, Spain Book from

Reviewed by Maia Tarrant
Sleek, monastic B&B in the former rectory of a tiny medieval village, 4km from the coast
Tranquility sets in the moment we arrive at this ultra-minimalist converted rectory, hidden in the sleepy, secluded village of Regencós, deep in Catalonia’s Dali Triangle. The spartan, cool décor is a carefully curated mix of vaulted brick ceilings, pale olive walls and light retro wooden furniture, creating an ambiance of utter stillness only briefly interrupted by the periodic ringing of church bells. Scenic views sweep across ancient buildings and lush fields of wild flowers. On-call massages and yoga sessions, a walled garden with pool, and a shaded hammock all add to the Zen factor.

Leave if you can bear to and discover the village's cobbled walkways, its central square perfumed by flowers, and the fig trees set around a medieval church. Then hop on a bike or in the car to explore the cultured towns, beautiful beaches and chic restaurants of Catalonia at large.

Highs

  • A tranquil setting in a medieval village, yet just a short drive from national parks, pretty Begur and beaches
  • Two romantic suites and a pair of apartments for 2-4 with kitchens for simple self-catering
  • Enthusiastic owner Alicia is on-site daily and can suggest restaurants and day trips
  • Free bike hire and recommended local routes - go at sunset for gorgeous colours!
  • An ideal 'whole property' rental for a group of 8+

Lows

  • Breakfast is simple continental and no other meals are served
  • There's only one restaurant in the village, and it only opens during the summer months...
  • ... so you'll definitely need a car to dine out and explore the area
  • Some might find the village a little too peaceful, you can do a lap in minutes
  • Limited front desk service (mornings only), best for independent travellers

Best time to go

Catalonia is lovely from early spring to late autumn. September is the best of all worlds - great weather, clear beaches, quiet roads.

Our top tips

In summer, check out funky Aeroclub Empordà, a bohemian little bar and restaurant set under canopies next to a small rural airfield. Located in nearby Torroella de Montgrí (10-minute drive), it's also managed by Alicia; scenic flights and flight lessons can be arranged on request.

Great for...

Beach
Family
Wedding
  • = Recommended
  • = Best in region
  • = World favourite
  • Boutique B&B
  • 4
  • Breakfast only (+ 2 apartments with kitchens)
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Outdoor Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Bicycles Available
  • Yoga / personal trainer
Room: Junior Double

Rooms

Décor is austere yet elegant, with pale olive green walls, grey headboards, unpolished terracotta tiles and Scandi-style furniture. Crisp white cotton sheets add to the cool and calming ambiance.

The 2 ground-floor Apartments are accessed directly from the communal walled garden and pool, making them ideal for families. Each has a double bedroom, a living room with a funky purple sofabed for 1-2, and characterful arched brick ceilings offset by plain white modern kitchens.

We preferred the brighter top-floor Suites with white painted wooden ceilings, separate sitting rooms and a more generous layout. We stayed in the Senior Double, which was our favourite, thanks to its breezy vibe and beautiful views across the surrounding fields. It is accessed (as is the Junior Double) via a huge beamed lounge, where a rustic, wooden cupboard filled with candles, adds a much-needed touch of warmth.

Sleek, contemporary bathrooms have bathtubs with overhead showers, fluffy white cotton towels and fabulous Omnisens toiletries.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Coffee tea making
  • Cots Available
  • Extra beds
  • Hairdryer
  • Toiletries
  • Tv
  • WiFi

Eating

A simple breakfast of croissants and coffee is the only meal served at the Rectoria. However, there are a plethora of fabulous restaurants, from rustic to Michelin star, within a short drive. We had excellent plates of grilled sepia, fried white anchovies and tortilla, washed down with a carafe of sangria, at the fabulous little Es Dofí fish restaurant in Tamariu. The chef could be seen walking back and forth between the kitchen and his fishing spot in the little bay just outside the restaurant, returning with a catch in his hand each time. Begur, 5 minutes' drive away, has some good options too; ask Alicia for recommendations.

There is only one eatery in Regencós itself, open during the summer months, but SolBlanc in nearby Pals is a bike ride away; a typical Catalan farmhouse with a large garden and great local dishes.

The Apartments have full kitchens suitable for whipping up light snacks and family suppers, and there are grocery stores in Begur.

Features include:

  • Breakfast
  • Coffee tea making
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Hit the beach: the charming coastal towns of Tamariu and Sa Tuna have lovely, sandy beaches and Pals is great for surfing
  • Check out the Dali Triangle: the museum in Figueres, the castle in Púbol and Dali’s house in Port Lligat
  • Visit the stylish seaside town of Cadaqués, which drew celebrities in the 1960s and continues to be a favourite haunt of the local elite
  • Explore “Catalan Tuscany”, including the villages of Madremanya, Sant Marti Vell, Monells and La Pera
  • Browse local antique shops and markets in La Bisbal
  • Wander the village then relax in the walled garden by the pool or in a hammock
  • Stay (or get) fit with your personal trainer or yoga teacher, before rewarding yourself with an in-room reflexology massage or beauty treatment
  • Take the free mountain bikes for a spin around the nearby villages - Alicia can provide maps outlining a picturesque 2-hour tour

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Cycling
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Horse-riding
  • Museums / galleries
  • Plantlife / flora
  • Shopping / markets
  • Surfing
  • Swimming
  • Well being
  • Yoga

Kids

Good for kids aged 0-12, though the atmosphere is quiet and relaxed. Ideal for an exclusive booking by one extended family or group, giving free reign of the walled garden and pool.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

The spacious Apartments are the best option thanks to their fully equipped kitchens and direct garden access; both have a double bedroom and sofabed for 1-2 kids in their living area. The Suites also have double bedrooms and small living rooms with big sofabeds. If you book the Senior and Junior Double together, you get exclusive use of the entire first floor, including its large central lounge.

Babysitting:

Available on request.

Kids Activities on site:

  • Walled garden
  • Swimming pool
  • Mountain bikes

Kids Activities nearby:

  • Family-friendly beaches
  • Horse riding
  • Kayaking and snorkelling in marine reserves
  • Seasonal waterparks and go-karting along the coast

Families Should Know:

The staircase to the top-floor Suites is very steep and there are no stair gates. Apartment guests do not have access to the first-floor lounge. Senior and Junior Doubles lack cooking facilities. The pool is unfenced

Kid Friendly:

Our guests' ratings...

10/
Rooms
9/
Food
10/
Service
9/
Value
10/
Overall

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