Relais Casamassima

near Perugia, Umbria & Le Marche, Italy
Book from Book from £168 per night

Seductive and exquisite 5-suite retreat on an agriturismo surrounded by vines and olives, just 10 minutes from Perugia

Tinkling bells, chirping cicadas and a swathe of hillside covered in olives and vines - happiness on the outskirts of Perugia. From the refreshing aperitif on arrival to the organic toiletries from Spello, all is simple, beautiful, and run with great kindness by owner Anna. As well as welcoming overnight guests, Casamassima is a working farm with a little on-site shop selling its very own extra virgin olive oil and wines. At breakfast you’re served fresh cakes, homemade jams and eggs from the hens, and lunch is delicious: we’ve heard tales of stuffed peppers from the garden and just-picked cherries from by the pool (then maybe limoncello tiramisu), and we cannot wait to visit for ourselves.

Wide brick arches span the renovated stable, rugs lie scattered on sloping brick floors, and there are drinks you can help yourself to, plus cards, chess, music - Anna has thought of everything. The suites, a meticulous mix of antique and contemporary, will enchant you with their pretty stone balconies and romantic bedrooms. Working fireplaces ensure winter is cosy, and summer brings idyllic swimming amongst the lavender trees. With Assisi, Perugia, Montone and Gubbio nearby, plus an ancient tower with nesting doves and rambling pastures with sheep and chickens, this is a perfect slice of rural Umbria.

Highs

  • A tranquil retreat in the rolling hills of Umbria - Italy’s ‘Green Heart’ - yet just a 10-minute drive from bustling Perugia
  • Anna is a warm and dedicated hostess with meticulous attention to detail and a wealth of knowledge about the local area
  • Deliciously luxurious and seductive suites, all with private living rooms, fireplaces and balconies
  • Beautiful food, all produced within the grounds - fruits, vegetables, eggs, wine and olive oil
  • If you can find a group of friends to share it with, it would make a blissful holiday house for weekly rentals (sleeps up to 12)

Lows

  • Although Perugia is only 4km away, you'll really need a car to make the most of the region
  • With so few rooms you may be obliged to be sociable - a plus for some people
  • The pool is small and unheated, but it's a blissful spot to while away an afternoon

Best time to go

The elevated position - and the bedrooms’ air-conditioning - makes this a good choice for high season. But avoid July and August in Umbria if you don’t like the heat or crowds: the hilltop towns are at their best off season. In spring and autumn the restaurants are frequented mainly by locals, and in May-June the countryside is garlanded with flowers. Winter at Casamassima is really cosy - the suites have working log fires. October is the month for mushrooms, truffles and wild-boar hunting, and Christmas is a surprise in Città di Castello.

Come in July for the Umbria Jazz Festival. It's held at a 4,500-seat outdoor arena in Perugia with views of the Santa Giuliana church - amazing. Alternatively, October brings EuroChocolate in Perugia, one of the world’s biggest chocolate jamborees: 9 days’ worth of displays, tastings and sculptings across the city’s squares. Scoff yourself silly.

Our top tips

Give yourself at least a day to relax in the garden, breathe the pure air, listen to the bells (they keep sheep) and idle by the pool. Find a romantic wrought-iron table under the gazebo or by the clambering wisteria. Pluck a juicy fig from the trees.

Great for...

Foodie
Great Outdoors
  • Boutique B&B
  • 5 rooms
  • Breakfast (+ other meals on request)
  • All ages welcome
  • Closed: Rarely closed
  • Outdoor Pool
  • Spa
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Daily Maid Service
  • Towels & Bedlinen
  • Concierge Service
  • Wine-tastings
Room:

Rooms

All suites are elegant, refined spaces that you won’t want to leave. Seductive lighting throws a warm glow on bare stone walls, a decorative wooden bed is reflected in a mirrored armoire, and peonies sit on an antique chest of drawers. A canvas of a nude dominates an anteroom, and Anna has included thoughtful little extras like bottle openers should you fancy a soak with a glass of red (choose Suite 2 or 4).

Suite 1 is themed in cool greys and blues, and has a private, secluded terrace. Its bathroom, with a large shower, is distinguished by a rustic mix of new and old: a gilt-framed mirror on an exposed stone wall touched with tiny mosaics.

Decorated in warm biscuit shades, romantic Suite 2 has a Jacuzzi tub and hydromassage shower. Outside there’s a stunning stone loggia sprinkled with fairy lights.

Decorated in sage green and purple with Art-Deco styling Suite 3’s fireplace is big enough to sit in. In the bathroom there's a magnificent shower with horizontal jets, and it also has a small balcony for stargazing.

More recently, a twin Deluxe Room with lofty beamed ceiling has been added, as well as the B&B’s most decadent room: welcoming Suite 4 with its split-level bed and lounge area, and large bathroom with freestanding tub and walk-in shower.

Safes, minibars, wide modern sinks on thick slabs of travertine, colour-changing chromotherapy showers, goose-down duvets and pillows, organic toiletries from Spello,: all are the norm.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Bathrobes
  • Central heating
  • Extra beds
  • Family friendly
  • Fireplace
  • Hairdryer
  • Safe box
  • Satellite TV
  • Terrace
  • Toiletries
  • WiFi

Eating

Breakfast is served in the conservatory, where the citrus trees were once housed in winter. Big windows overlook the garden and trees; there are smart cane chairs, cream china, and fresh flowers on glass-topped tables. Tuck into homemade cakes and jams, eggs (from the hens) cooked as you like them, yoghurts, cereals, croissants, bacon, fresh juice, coffee and tea.

Light lunches can be served by the pool: Anna’s delicious omelettes and pastas, stuffed green peppers and tomatoes drizzled with olive oil, meringues and plum cakes, fresh hazelnuts, peaches, strawberries, cherries, and a wicked limoncello tiramisu. There's also a small selection of drinks in the stable guest lounge. In the evening, informal dinners are available on request; you'll get 2 or 3 courses and the menu is designed around what's in season.

Unfortunately, there is no restaurant within walking distance, but you can take a taxi to Perugia (mere minutes) where there are plenty of dining options - ask Anna for recommendations.

If you want to take a little bit of your holiday home with you, an on-site shop sells the agriturismo’s own olive oil and wines - i-escape guests get a complimentary bottle of their choice.

Features include:

  • Breakfast
  • Coffee / tea making
  • Dinner by arrangement
  • Family friendly
  • Lunch by arrangement
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Room service
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Sample the local wines, starting with Casamassima’s own; its vineyards were planted at the end of the 1800s. Also try Montefalco’s elegant sagrantino reds - little-known outside Umbria - and Orvieto’s crisp whites
  • Take your pick of Umbria’s hill towns. All have enough to keep you busy for the day - Perugia, Assisi, Orvieto, Todi, Spoleto and Norcia. More intimate are Montefalco, Bevagna, Spello, Trevi, Narni, Bettona, Città di Castello and Città della Pieve. Anna can organise guided tours
  • We love Montone, closed to traffic and perfectly preserved, where you can feast on Slow Food at the lively little Il Capitano hostelry and visit the 11th-century frescoe’d chapel of San Francesco
  • Follow the spectacular mountain road to Gubbio and immerse yourself in 2,000 years of history. There’s a Roman theatre still used in summer, plus palazzos, churches and the Duomo. Don’t miss the cable car that links the sanctuary of St Ubaldo to the summit of Mount Ingino, for breathtaking Apennine mountain views
  • Trek or ride in the mythical Sibillini mountains of Monte Subasio Park: spot a wild cat or a porcupine, and discover the Gorge of the Inferno, where butterflies flit, rivers flow and the wild flowers riot in early June
  • In summer, you can relax by the B&B's little pool, surrounded by lavender and pear trees - magical from dawn until sunset
  • In winter, flop onto a large cream sofa in the sitting room in the stables. Dip into books, magazines and games, with music and a glass of the hotel’s red. Like home, only better
  • Treat yourself to a massage in the garden spa. There is a masseuse on site daily from 5-8pm
  • Play golf and tennis - both are close. Just ask Anna for directions and information

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Birdwatching
  • Cycling
  • Golf
  • Historical sites
  • Museums / galleries
  • Plantlife / flora
  • Private guided tours
  • Shopping / markets
  • Swimming
  • Tennis
  • Wildlife
  • Wine tasting

Kids

Although Relais Casamassima is not an obvious destination for families, and the swimming pool is unfenced, Anna’s welcome is warm and there's plenty of space for kids to run around and let off steam.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

Suite 3 has space for a baby cot or an extra bed; Suite 4 has a sofabed. Older children could make use of the twin beds in the Deluxe Room.

Babysitting:

Babysitting is available for an additional charge.

Baby equipment:

Baby cots and high chairs are available on request.

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Kid Friendly:

Location

Relais Casamassima is tucked behind Perugia, 4km from the city centre. Perugia is in Umbria, central Italy.

By Air:
The nearest airport is Perugia (16km) - a 20-minute drive. Rome, Florence and Bologna airports are 2 to 2.5 hours away. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.

From the Airport
You could take a taxi, but you’d be better off hiring a car (see below).

By Train from the UK:
If you'd prefer to travel overland from the UK, you can reach Umbria quite easily from London. The nearest station is Perugia, 4km from the B&B. Visit the excellent Seat 61 for information about train travel from the UK.

By Car:
We’d recommend hiring a car to help you explore the area - see our car rental recommendations.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.

More on getting to Italy and getting around

Airports:

  • Perugia 16.0 km PEG
  • Rome - Ciampino 196.0 km FCO

Other:

  • Beach 118.0 km
  • Shops 1.0 km
  • Restaurant 4.0 km

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 2 independent reviews from i-escape guests

10/10
Room
10/10
Food
10/10
Service
10/10
Value
10/10
Overall

If you want to unwind but also to enjoy the cultural aspects of Perugia and the surrounding area then this is the place to come,

Curated effortlessly yet stylishly by the owner Anna, the feel is very calm and easygoing. There is everything here you could possibly need, like super fast broadband and a good shower, along with a gorgeous little pool and lots of shady places to sit and relax dotted around the garden and grounds.

Should you wish to spend the day here then Anna offers lunch by arrangement (and supper too). She brought us all drinks by the pool and there is also delicious homemade cake.

Perugia is but a 10-minute drive away and a taxi cost 20 euros, but that was one I found by the Etruscan Arch so maybe Anna could recommend a cheaper option,

A highlight is Anna’s fabulous cooking and homegrown ingredients, along with wine from her vineyard and their own olive oil, There is a little shop too. Also the service - you can get your laundry done here and Anna couldn’t have been more thoughtful in doing everything she could for my friend and I.

Just one tiny downside. There are mosquitos around and I was bitten a bit, but that was my fault.

Thank you so much to Anna and her wonderful team!

10/10,

Anna and Lucetta where incredibly nice and welcoming. The suits are really nice, clean and detailed. The place is beautiful, they have vineyards, olive trees and a veggie garden. Meals were simple but very well made, using local and only seasonal products, portions are big and they decided the menu on our requests. We had dinner and breakfast there and would recommend it to everyone who stays there. They sell wine, oil and other products. They took us for a little tour around the house to explain everything to us. If u are looking for some quiet couple of days this is definitely the place.

10/10,

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