Riad Tizwa

Fes, Morocco
Book from GBP Book from £49 per night

A great-value sanctuary with a sunny roof terrace, views across the medina and delicious fassi cooking

A great-value sanctuary with a sunny roof terrace, views across the medina and delicious fassi cooking

Tizwa means 'bee' in Amazigh, the local Berber language: it takes its name from brothers Daniel and Richard Bee who loved the Fes medina so much, they were inspired to open a hotel here. So they found a grand old family house of elegant proportions, and after an inspired restoration project it has become an ode to the decorative arts of Morocco: chiselled stucco, polished tadelakt, geometric woodwork, zellig and beijmat tiling, and ornate ironmongery.

Given the wealth of detail present in the fabric of the building, when it came to furnishing the riad the Bees kept things spare: a few low tables, easy chairs and potted plants in the soaring central patio; traditional silk-covered sofas in the salon; Berber rugs in a rich hue of garnet, and uncluttered bedrooms. But despite the beauty of this décor, it's not the main draw. There are other, even more appealing elements. Tizwa's roof terrace is tranquil, the welcome is warm and genuine, breakfasts (served any time you want) are fabulous, and the 9 guest rooms come with a price tag which is way below similar ones in the medina.

Highs

  • A great location just yards from Place Batha and the souks, with covered parking close by
  • The riad is very quiet and has super-comfy beds so you'll sleep deeply
  • Great for romantics: the central courtyard looks stunning at night when scented candles are lit
  • Tizwa's crowning glory is its roof terrace, which grants glimpses into the medina below and the Atlas mountains beyond

Lows

  • The guest sitting room felt a little dark and uninviting, although with the seating in the courtyard there's no real need to use it
  • The stairs are narrow and there's no lift, though staff will help you with luggage
  • Due to the layout of the old building the ground-floor rooms are quite dark, but this keeps them cooler in summer
  • Simple compared to some of Fes's more elaborate riads, but this is reflected in the price

Best time to go

Fes is a narcotic and life-changing place to visit at any time of the year. Tizwa's sliding roof and excellent heating system means you'd be comfortable here even if you coincided with colder weather. Most folk would find the heat of mid summer to be an ordeal so try to avoid coming in July or August.

Our top tips

Pack a guide with a map of the medina (though you should still expect to get lost), a comfortable pair of shoes, sunglasses and sunblock and an Arab phrase book with a decent section on food

Great for...

Cheap & Chic
City Style
Foodie
  • Boutique Riad
  • 9 rooms
  • Breakfast (+ dinners on request)
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • Beach Nearby
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car not necessary
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
Room: Room 5

Rooms

Tizwa's 9 bedrooms are spread over 3 levels. They vary in size and configuration, but have lots of common features: ornate zellig tiles, coloured tadelakt (polished stucco) in bathrooms, garnet-coloured Berber rugs.

The size of the rooms, along with subtle lighting and an absence of clutter, creates a mood that invites relaxation. Light slants in from courtyard-facing windows past the arabesques of wrought-iron grilles and half moons of stained glass, creating pools of coloured light.

Opposite the sitting room, one of the Luxury Doubles is a large, high-ceilinged room, plenty big enough to slot in easy chairs and a table. Next door to this, the Deluxe Double is the newest addition, and benefits from having a bath and a shower in its lovely bathroom. These rooms don't get as much natural light as the others but, as a result, they stay cooler in the summer heat.

The first-floor rooms (a Luxury and the Superior) also have high cedar ceilings plus zellig tiles on walls and floor, mostly of cobalt blue. The Suite is the largest, spread across 2 floors with the bedroom on the lower level and a small dressing room and bathroom above this.

On our last visit, we stayed in the Double Room, the only room on the top floor. It has a really private feel with a big bathtub and a basin set into a long sweep of marble, and opens onto the terrace. This and the Suite are alone in having fireplaces: book one of these rooms should you visit in winter. There are 3 Basic Doubles; as the name suggests these are plainly decorated and small in size - a low wooden ceiling exaggerates the compact size - but we thought they were charming in their cosiness, and this is reflected in their very low rates.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Bathrobes
  • Hairdryer
  • Slippers
  • Toiletries
  • WiFi

Eating

You come to expect delicious breakfasts in Morocco, and Tizwa's didn't let us down. With the sun bathing our table (there are umbrellas and a tent for shade in the hotter months) and the medina's roofscape stretching out before us, we were in no mood to rush. A potful of coffee was accompanied by freshly squeezed orange juice, creamy homemade yoghurt served with muesli and chopped fruit, fresh Moroccan bread, along with several different jams and pancakes drizzled in honey, and eggs as you like them.

And we were glad that we chose to have dinner at Tizwa: if you plan to do the same, let Merieme know at breakfast. You can eat in the courtyard or up on the roof terrace. We chose the latter, to dine under the stars against a backdrop of the evening call to prayer. The meal began with a variety of salads, baba ganoush and red pepper dip, then came an outstanding lamb tajine with prune and almond. The food was some of the best of our trip; it tastes homemade in the best possible way, and the two of us were served enough to feed a whole family.

Tea and pastries are available any time, and there are plenty of restaurants within walking distance should you want a change of scene - The Ruined Garden and Fondouk Bazaar are popular choices.

Features include:

  • Breakfast
  • Dinner by arrangement
  • Kids' meals
  • Lunch by arrangement
  • Organic produce
  • Restaurants nearby
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Try to find your way to the Place an-Nejjarine to visit the Museum of Arts and Crafts, and one of the city's most ancient funduqs. Tizwa has some trusted guides if you'd prefer company
  • Cut through the medina to Bab Bou Jeloud or the Place As Seffarine and people-watch over mint tea from one of their many cafés
  • Visit the tanneries to remind yourself that in some ways Fes has changed little in hundreds of years
  • Take a day trip to Meknes and Volubilis, home to some of the world's best preserved Roman mosaics
  • Shop 'til you drop: with patience and a sense of humour you're in a win-win situation when bargaining for handicrafts in the souks
  • Experience the delights of a hammam: it's also a great way of meeting locals
  • Jump in a petit taxi and head for the Fes El-Jdid neighbourhood. Don't miss the Jewish Cemetery and the Habarim synagogue
  • If the medina gets a bit overwhelming, explore the nearby Jnan Sbil gardens for a moment of fresh air and tranquility

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Historical sites
  • Museums / galleries
  • Private guided tours
  • Shopping / markets
  • Traditional cultures
  • Well being

Kids

Children are welcome and extra beds can be added to most rooms, but there are no baby cots.

Best for:

Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

Extra Beds Available

Babysitting:

By arrangement

Children's meals:

Menus can be adapted to suit children

Kids Activities nearby:

Exploring the souks would be an amazing experience for any kid although it might feel a wee bit intimidating at first.

Kid Friendly:

Location

Riad Tizwa is the best area of Fes' medina - Batha. Fes is in the north of Morocco.

By Air
Fly into Fes Sais, which is served by several airlines, or Rabat and then catch a 3-hour train. Alternatively, fly into Marrakech and take a 1-hour hopper flight.

From the Airport
Transfers can be arranged through the hotel, or you can jump in a taxi (approx. 20-minute drive).

By Train
There are regular trains to Fes from Rabat (3hrs), Casablanca (4hrs), Tangiers (5hrs) and Marrakech (7hrs).

By Car
If you want to hire a car to explore other parts of Morocco see our car rental recommendations.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.

Airports:

  • Fes, Sais 12.0 km FEZ

Other:

  • Beach 130.0 km
  • Shops 0.2 km
  • Restaurant 0.2 km

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 3 independent reviews from i-escape guests

8/10
Room
9/10
Food
10/10
Service
8/10
Value
9/10
Overall

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Rates for Riad Tizwa

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