Santiago de Alfama

Alfama, Lisbon, Portugal
Book from GBP Book from £213 per night

Elegance and luxury at this stunningly converted palace, hidden high in the historic streets of Alfama

Elegance and luxury at this stunningly converted palace, hidden high in the historic streets of Alfama

We stepped through the jaw-dropping doors of Santiago as its first-ever guests and instantly knew this would be a front-runner amongst Lisbon's boutique hotels. Years later, they continue to prove us right. Owners Heleen and Manny bought this 15th-century palace (then a run-down bra factory) in 2010, immediately seeing its full potential. Their visionary transformation has kept the building true to its past, yet it has been pulled into the 21st century and turned into a stylish and restful space.

There are just 19 bedrooms, along with an atmospheric café-restaurant-bar and a Beauty Bar (Martini with your manicure? Why not!). Mod cons are well considered and subtle (sound-proofing, speakers in the bathrooms), and Roman ruins unearthed during the build have been exposed and celebrated. Better still, you get all the things that are missing in many boutique hotels - lots of space, wardrobes, great bathrooms and indulgent Bvlgari products. Heleen’s eye for detail has created nothing short of a masterpiece. The doors open onto a quiet cobbled street, yet the old town's bustling hotspots, Insta-worthy viewpoints and a stop for the famous Tram 28 are a stroll away. We felt thoroughly spoilt (and, dare we say, a little smug to have discovered Alfama’s hottest hidden gem?).

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Highs

  • All rooms, even the cheapest, are generous sizes for a city hotel, and bathrooms too
  • Beautiful, understated style - high quality abounds but things remain simple
  • Equally suited to couples, friends and families; not an easy balance to achieve
  • Set on a quiet street in Lisbon's oldest district, a short walk from Castelo de São Jorge and viewpoints across the Tagus river
  • Trams (including the famous yellow Tram 28) rattle past a few hundred metres away so it's easy to hop on and explore the city

Lows

  • Occasionally service in the restaurant can be stretched, but it's worth the wait
  • Be aware this area of the city has steep and cobbled streets, so might not be great for those with mobility problems
  • Prices are fairly high compared to other Lisbon hotels, but we think it's worth it

Best time to go

Lisbon is a fabulous city break at any time of year, though temperatures can tip 40C in July and August. Room prices are lowest in November, December and January, and the city rarely gets very cold.

Our top tips

Beat the crowds and bag a seat on Tram 28 (the classic yellow 1930s trams) by hopping on before 9am at the stop around the corner from the hotel. It’s a joy to ride it (west) to the end of the line and back again (you’ll need cash).

Great for...

City Style
Family
Romantic
Spa
  • Boutique Hotel
  • 19 rooms
  • Restaurant and bar (open daily)
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • Beach Nearby
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car not necessary
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
Room:

Rooms

Each of the 19 bedrooms is distinctly different with its own charms. All you really need to know is that even the smallest are spacious and elegant, all have TVs and espresso machines, and most a wall of wardrobes. Some are more contemporary than others; one has an original Lichtenstein pop-art; another features Bristol’s own Banksy prints.

Bathrooms are beautifully tiled (this is Lisbon, after all) with pampering Bvlgari products and vast walk-in showers or enormous tubs. Bespoke fabrics, furniture and linens have been sourced from across the globe, including India, and all are top quality. Full sound-proofing is the icing on the cake - we woke restored and well rested, rarely the case in a city hotel.

On our last visit, our Junior Suite with View was nothing short of perfect. The tiled bathroom and huge tub left us giddy with grandeur, while the separate dressing room was perfect for a cot and our snoring toddler. The massive bed was a treat, exposed stonework showed off the building’s history, and the windows opened up to fabulous views down to the river.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Bathrobes
  • Central heating
  • Coffee / tea making
  • Cots available
  • Hairdryer
  • In-room treatments available
  • Radio
  • Safe box
  • Toiletries
  • TV
  • WiFi

Eating

All dining takes place in Audrey's, a relaxed café-restaurant-bar comprised of several cosy spaces and a street terrace for alfresco dining in the summer sunshine.

For breakfast, there are plenty of irresistible options on offer (fresh pastries, fruit platters, and various cooked dishes like their signature spinach fritters with crème fraiche and lime & chilli butter). For lunch and daytime snacks, choose between small plates, sharing boards, brunch or salads. The evening menu boasts tasty food at very reasonable prices; we started with a delicate tomato carpaccio as well as beetroot and burrata, followed by grilled octopus with sautéed spinach, and fresh fillet of dory.

Staff are super friendly and enthusiastic, and were keen to chat about the organic produce, which is proudly homegrownat their farmhouse in Alentejo. The wine list has a good array of Portuguese options, but we couldn't resist a cocktail in the high-ceilinged Manny's Bar- the floreale & lapsang souchong non-alcoholic cocktail was our surprise stand-out - before dinner. Or you could enjoy a simple beer on the terrace; both feel elegant yet relaxed.

Of course, Alfama has plenty of good restaurants. For a change of scene, we'd recommend the tasting menu at Mini Bar Teatro.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Café
  • Kids' meals
  • Restaurant
  • Restaurants nearby
  • Room service
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Enjoy the history of Lisbon's oldest district: wander cobbled streets, visit the famous Castelo de São Jorge, and see the church that Christopher Columbus got married in
  • Fado, the beautiful, haunting Portuguese singing, originated in Alfama; ask reception to recommend cafés with live performances
  • Jump on Tram 28 and head downtown or just enjoy a rattling ride around Lisbon
  • We loved LX Factory, a converted warehouse turned creative hub, housing cutting-edge shops, cafés and galleries
  • Grab something to eat and drink at the bustling Time Out Market where the best of the city’s cuisine is served in one big food hall
  • Or you can shop in the high-street stores of Baixa, the quirky boutiques of Bairro Alto and the upmarket hideaways of Chiado
  • No one should leave Lisbon without visiting Pastelaria de Belém, the spiritual home of the custard tart; take the train from Cais do Sodré (a cool area in itself) or a tram from the city. Whilst there, visit the Cultural Centre of Belém, which includes a terrific modern-art museum
  • At the hotel, stop by The Beauty Bar, the in-house salon, for a rejuvenating facial, manicure or massage
  • When the sun's up, catch a tram to Cascais and bask on its golden beach

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Boat trips
  • Historical sites
  • Museums / galleries
  • Nightlife
  • Shopping / markets
  • Well being

Kids

Children are warmly welcomed. Family is important to Heleen and Manny, who have 3 kids of their own, and they've provided heaps of equipment to borrow, from a buggy to stair gates (though we felt it best suited to older, well-behaved children). 0-12 year olds stay and breakfast for free when sharing their parents room. 9 of the rooms have baths.

Best for:

All ages

Family friendly accommodation:

All rooms can fit a baby cot. If you have one child up to 12 years old 4 rooms will work for your family (2 of the Deluxe Kings and 2 of the Superior Kings) as these can squeeze in an extra bed. If you are travelling with two children or teens, you'd need to book 2 interconnecting rooms, the following pairs interconnect or adjoin:
- 102 and 103, a Superior King (double) and a Small Room for Two (can be set up as a double or twin), and can sleep up to 4
- 201 and 202 , a Small Room for Two next to a Deluxe King (a double and a double or twin)
- 203 and 204, an interconnecting Deluxe King (double, which can also take an extra bed) and Small Room for Two (can be double or twin), so could also work for a family of 5

Cots Available, Extra Beds Available

Babysitting:

On request

Baby equipment:

  • Baby cots
  • High chairs
  • Stair gates
  • Toddler bed
  • Buggy to borrow
  • Baby bedding
  • Potties
  • Night lights
  • Baby baths
  • Baby monitors
  • Bottle warming
  • Kids' books / toys

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Children's meals:

Kids' menu available all day, and special mealtimes for kids

Kids Activities nearby:

  • Zoo
  • Beach
  • Oceanarium
  • Ride trams

Distances:

  • Airport: 20 minutes' drive (Lisbon)
  • Shop: 2 minutes
  • Hospital: 15 minutes
Kid Friendly: Superior King

Location

Santiago de Alfama is in the heart of Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest district, which sprawls down the hillside between Castelo de São Jorge and the river. Most major sights are within walking distance, and Tram 28 provides direct access to downtown.

By Air:
Lisbon’s Portela Airport (8km away) is served by plenty of flights from the UK, elsewhere in Europe and further afield - click on the links below for a list of airlines. The hotel can arrange airport transfers or you can take a taxi (the Bolt app is reliable and very good value). There’s also a metro link from the airport to the city centre, where you can pick up Tram 28 to the hotel.

By Car:
We don’t recommend having a car in Lisbon - the city is easily navigated on foot and by public transport, and the traffic can be tricky. However, if you want to hire one, see our car rental recommendations. The hotel can arrange parking.

Detailed directions will be sent when you confirm a booking through i-escape.com.

More on getting to Portugal and getting around

Airports:

  • Lisbon Portela 8.0 km LIS

Other:

  • Beach 18.0 km
  • Shops 0.2 km
  • Restaurant 0.2 km

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests

10/10
Room
10/10
Food
10/10
Service
10/10
Value
10/10
Overall

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Rates for Santiago de Alfama

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