Six Keys

Afissos, Pelion, Greece Book from Book from £169 per night

A stylish seaside guesthouse set on its own beach, with 7 spacious suites and delicious, inventive Greek cuisine

We were thrilled to unearth this gem. It has that elusive alchemy of a semi-private beach, contemporary styled suites and – unexpected bonus – truly outstanding Greek cuisine. If you think that’s a contradiction in terms, imagine still-warm chocolate-brown carob bread with homemade baba ganoush, baked sea bass stuffed with aromatic greens and served with a verbena sauce, or bitter chocolate soup with strawberry sorbet and blobs of mint sauce – washed down with superb Santorini wines, while waves lap at your flip-flops and the sun sinks into an inky sea. Life doesn't get much better.

The setting is magnificent. You look out over the placid waters of the Pagasitic Gulf, its horizon ringed by rugged lilac mountains. Take a swim before breakfast - flying fish skimmed the water in front of my nose - then wander into the pretty fishing village of Afissos, or explore Pelion's wooded hills by bike, horseback or miniature train. Service comes with a smile, and rates are reasonable. Each suite sleeps 2-4, thanks to a separate sitting room, though we think this would be perfect for couples without children who fancy an upmarket Greek beachside hideaway.
Covid update: see our Flexible Booking Policy.


  • The food really is an eye-opener: we thought it some of the best we've ever tasted in 20 years of visiting Greek hotels
  • We also liked the chic homely suites, with their brushed concrete-effect walls, large abstract tableaux and heavy designer fabrics - though they may not be to everyone’s taste
  • If you tire of the lovely sand-shingle beach on your doorstep, there are 2 more within 15 minutes' walk
  • With only 7 suites (one of them added, presumably, after they chose the name), it feels delightfully exclusive
  • Pelion makes a refreshing change from the barren Greek islands, with its cooler summers, dappled olive and beech woods, and picturesque stone villages


  • You'll need to book early: the season is short, and Exi Kleidia (to use its Greek name) has a faithful following among the cognoscenti of Athens and Thessaloniki
  • The near-constant soundtrack of chilled music irked me a bit, but it starts mid-morning, so you can wake to the sound of the waves at least
  • You may never use your ensuite sitting room: the outdoor seating (both private and communal) is even nicer
  • Some suites come with a fireplace or sunken jacuzzi, but these tend not to be operational
  • It's a bit of a devil to reach (unless you can find a rare flight into Volos): expect 2.5 hours' drive from Thessaloniki, 4 from Athens

Best time to go

Six Keys is generally open from mid-April to the end of October, and we think the ideal months are May, June and September: pleasant temperatures (typically 22-30 Celsius) and no crowds. Generally, Pelion tends to be a few degrees cooler than the Greek islands and southern mainland, so July-August are bearable; but be aware that in August the beach in front of the hotel can get very busy.

Our top tips

Ioannis Baxevanis visits the hotel around three times a year so you may be lucky enough to meet him. Otherwise, you are in very capable hands with head chef Antoneta Konomi. If you head to the beach - guests get their own special area of beach loungers, providing some exclusivity on the coastline.

Great for...

Great Outdoors
  • Boutique Hotel & Restaurant
  • 7 rooms
  • Restaurant (open daily)
  • All ages welcome
  • Closed: Closed November to March
  • Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Bicycles Available


The suites each have a double (kingsize) bedroom and a separate sitting room, with a small shower room in between. The palette is glistening gold and grey, with large abstract tableaux on brushed concrete-effect walls (actually just stud walls, as we discovered when noisy neighbours arrived), softened by cherubic candlesticks and provencal dressers in the sitting room. We liked it, though if you're after that simple whitewashed Cycladic look, you might not.

Open eaves keep the bedrooms tall and airy while, most importantly, the beds are fantastically comfy, with sink-into Coco-mat mattresses and vast stacks of pillows. Tiled wetrooms have a generous assortment of Elixir Herbs smellies made by the Greece-based My Roots.

Deluxe Suites boast a small sunken jacuzzi in the sitting room and a big stone fireplace in the bedroom, but the former seems superfluous with the sea on your doorstep, and the latter is purely decorative (anyway the hotel is closed in winter); so in all honesty you'd be better off booking the cheaper Standard Suites. These can sleep up to 4, using both sofabeds, but for more space families might prefer the larger, split-level Executive Suite with its extra single bed on a platform above. There are no twin-bedded rooms.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Bathrobes
  • Central heating
  • DVD player (on request)
  • Hairdryer
  • Jacuzzi (some rooms)
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Phone
  • Safe box
  • Toiletries
  • TV
  • WiFi


Food here is a highlight, as you may have gathered. Under the tutelage of Athenian superchef Iannis Baxevanis - Greece's Heston Blumenthal, if you will - the kitchen produces some astonishing dishes based on traditional Hellenic recipes but with innovative twists (such as savoury sorbets) and underused, often foraged, ingredients.

To start, there’s feta-stuffed doughnut topped with a red pepper sorbet, marinated sea bass with green apple sorbet, or carob pitta breads stuffed with calamari. But the show-stopper starter is shrimps that are cooked (with a sprinkling of ouzo) on hot pebbles at your table, then placed on a bed of white tarama mousse and rock samphire atop carob bread squares.

When it came to the mains, our sea bass stuffed with aromatic greens was wonderfully juicy. We also loved the chicken stuffed with sweet onions and raisins, served with celeriac purée, and the oven-baked lamb that came with a smoky aubergine puree. There’s black linguini, risotto, and salads too. And for dessert, if you don’t fancy the chocolate soup, there’s a deconstructed baklava served with mastika ice cream, sultanas, and thyme and black pepper meringues. The well-priced, 7-page wine list is mostly Greek and there are cracking cocktails too - try the Minerva, a sweet-sour-spicy-salty mix of rum, spices, pineapple and chocolate bitter.

You eat in the rustic-chic dining room, among vintage posters, fresh flowers and glass candlejars; or grab one of the sea-facing veranda tables for a prime sunset view.

For breakfast, choose (the previous evening) from a menu card of pastries, homemade jams, pancakes with cheese and honey, cold cuts, omelettes, local yoghurt and seasonal fruit. Lunch is also available (either the same dishes as at supper or lighter snacks like a pastorma sandwich or pork belly pie), but we enjoyed wandering into Afissos (15 mins) to eat at one of its waterside tavernas or bars.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Children's meals
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Organic produce
  • Restaurant
  • Restaurants nearby
  • Vegetarian menu


  • This is a place to indulge and do very little: swim in the sea, sunbathe on one of the beachfront loungers, top it off with fantastic cocktails and dinner
  • When the mood takes you, wander into pretty Afissos (15 mins) for laid-back bars, simpler tavernas and fishing boats; on the way you pass a smaller beach for cooling off
  • With a car (or mountain bike or horse, both of which can be arranged), explore Pelion's wooded hills and unspoiled stone villages; Milies has a vividly frescoed church and historic library, Pinakates is quietly authentic
  • In high summer, a miniature train cuts a scenic swathe through the hills from Agria to Milies; jump off at the tiny station of Ano Gatzea for ancient footpaths through olive groves to the sea
  • Just along the beach from Six Keys is a dive and sea-kayaking centre, which opens sporadically
  • If you're based here for a while, you might want to drive round to Pelion's wilder east coast; we love the hidden cove of Fakistra tucked beneath the handsome scattered houses of Tsangarada, as well as the tiny photogenic fishing harbour of Damouhari

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Boat trips
  • Cooking classes
  • Hiking
  • Horse riding
  • Mountain biking
  • Scuba diving
  • Snorkelling
  • Swimming
  • Windsurfing
  • Wine tasting


Children are welcome, and will appreciate the beach and watersports on the doorstep. We felt Six Keys better suited to older children given the lack of a pool (as is standard amongst hotels in the area) and its serious gourmet credentials. Most of the guests we encountered were couples.
If you bring a baby monitor that allows you to dine in the restaurant or chill on the beach while the kids sleep in the room.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)

Family friendly accommodation:

Each suite has 1 or 2 sofabeds in its sitting area, plus space for a cot (available on request), so they can sleep a family in reasonable comfort

Baby equipment:

  • Baby cots
  • High chairs

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Children's meals:

The snack menu has kid-friendly dishes including pizza, a burger, club and toasted sandwiches, and the chef is happy to cater for special requests

Kids Activities nearby:

  • Beach
  • Watersports
  • Scuba diving centre next door
  • Horse riding - 5 minutes away


  • Airport: 45 minutes (Volos); 4 hours (Athens); 2.5 hours (Thessaloniki)
  • Hospital: 20 minutes (Volos)
  • Shops: 5 minutes
Kid Friendly:


Six Keys is situated on Kallifteri beach just outside the village of Afissos (Afysos) on the Pelion peninsula. It's 25km (30 mins' drive) south of the town of Volos, following the main coastal road. Pelion is on the east coast of mainland Greece.

By Air
Fly into Volos (Nea Anchialos, 50km), if you can find a suitable flight. Otherwise Thessaloniki and Athens are respectively 3 and 4 hours' drive away, and are much better connected.

By Car
You'll probably want a car, as it's 1km (15 mins' walk) outside the village of Afissos, and the rest of Pelion is worth exploring. If so, see our car rental recommendations. Otherwise, if you just fancy a lazy time (and fine food) on the beach, you could manage without one; 5 or 6 buses a day run between Afissos and Volos.

By Boat from Skiathos
It's possible to combine Pelion with Skiathos using boats and hydrofoils in and out of Volos (30-45 mins' drive from the hotel), or the summer caique connection into Katigiorgis (1 hour's drive away). Skiathos has an airport with charter flights from the UK and a few other countries, as well as domestic flights from Athens.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through

More on getting to Greece and getting around.


  • Volos (Nea Anchialos) 50.0 km VOL
  • Thessaloniki (Macedonia) 250.0 km SKG


  • Beach 0.0 km
  • Shops 1.0 km
  • Restaurant 1.0 km

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 5 independent reviews from i-escape guests


Six Keys Seaside Lodge is unique- a hidden GEM situated on the stunning Kalifteri Beach. Affisos..
We are not hotel people normally but this beautiful place is a MUST! The hospitality from the owner, his wife, Angela, Olga and the rest of the team was outstanding….they just want their guests to have the best experience ever and nothing was TOO much trouble! British hospitality could learn a great deal from them!
Our bedroom was decorated so tastefully in a French chic design. Our bed was the best, most comfortable bed I have ever slept in!!! We had breakfast (such a great choice) on our veranda every morning overlooking the beach. All the bedrooms in Six Keys have their own private entrance to the beach. Sea bathing is amazing as it is so clean and gorgeously blue! If you eat in the their restaurant, you will not be disappointed- excellent Greek food.
I do suggest if your stay is longer than one week, a car is advisable to explore the surrounding areas.
If you want a quiet, relaxing quality holiday in a beautiful undeveloped part of Greece, this is the place. Please tell your friends but not too many as we want to book for 2023. Thank you SIX KEYS for everything.


This was a fantastic holiday and we would love to go back one day.
When we booked it we were a couple and then had to move it a few times because of covid. By the time we went we were a family of 3.
Olga and Angeliki were fantastic at booking things for us, a taxi to and from the airport with a car seat. The rest of the staff were very welcoming and charmed our little one. We had a great room and turned the sitting room into a room for the baby, the staff were great at accommodating the cleaning around his naps.
Food was delicious, breakfast was amazing as such a variety, dinner menu was nice although when you’re eating there every night it became a bit repetitive. It was the end of the season so not much was open in Afissos.
We walked into the town each day, the grocery store is great for buying big bottles of water as you don’t get any in the room. The walk with a pushchair was a bit dicey as the roads are not wide and there is no pavement, we wouldn’t have wanted to do this walk in the dark (another reason we didn’t venture from the hotel restaurant) The only negative I have is the daily flyovers of the fighter jets training, obviously not a fault of the hotels but they are so loud. It was great going at the end of the season as the hotel and beach were very quiet so we felt very safe with regards to covid.
We would love to visit again.


Gorgeous hotel in an idyllic location, with an almost private beach literally outside your door! Staff were very friendly and helpful from the moment of booking and helped with lots of queries. The food was outstanding. It was great to be able to walk to Afisoss and the local area was simply stunning with lots of olive groves and small bays. Only tiny criticism is that there was no free water in the hotel room.


What an oasis the Six Keys is. Outstanding location on an immaculate beach, lovely room, great service and food. Olga and Angela were helpful and efficient in the booking process and in person, and the staff were all extremely friendly and accommodating. The room was comfortable and beautifully cleaned each day. We went with an 18 month old baby and the lounge part of the suite was perfect for her bedroom - quiet, had blackout blinds and a door we could shut. We had suite 6 which we liked as it’s the last one and therefore nobody walks past. Excellent base for exploring the wonderful Pelion peninsula. Our only comment is that families with small children might slightly struggle with the lack of a children’s menu depending on the fussiness of the child! All in all a fabulous holiday.


Beautiful hotel in great setting with wonderful views. Thought the service and the food were both brilliant. Loved the extensive breakfast menu and dinners on the beach were memorable.


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