The Lumiares Hotel & Spa

Bairro Alto, Lisbon, Portugal Book from Book from £155 per night

Restored 18th-century palace housing stylish apartments, a rooftop restaurant and a little spa, in the lively Bairro Alto
Black and white, old and new, day and night… It’s all about contrasts in The Lumiares, starting with the elegant lobby where striking monochrome tiles make a great first impression. Then there’s the fact that this 18th-century restored palace houses a collection of contemporary apartments. And the yin and yang of the trendy Bairro Alto neighbourhood: by day, tourists explore the cobblestoned backstreets while locals go about their daily business; by night, it transforms into one giant street party (don’t worry, triple-glazed windows mean you won’t hear a thing). Even the hotel’s name has a double meaning: ‘Lumiares’ because the building once belonged to Count Lumiares, but also a nod to the light-and-dark theme (referenced in the apartments’ hand-pressed typography posters).

There’s so much to love here: the service is nothing short of impeccable, and the rooftop restaurant is as special as its castle views (and cocktails). There’s also a sweet spa on the ground floor. But what made us fall hard was the bespoke décor by local artisans in all 53 apartments, from handspun tapestries to urban artworks. Despite its hip hotel status and international accolades, The Lumiares never forgets its Portuguese roots.

Highs

  • You’re in the heart of the Bairro Alto - a historic district with a bohemian soul. At night, pint-sized bars spill out onto the cobblestoned streets
  • Lumi, the trendy rooftop restaurant, has spectacular city views
  • Or self cater: each apartment has a fully equipped Smeg kitchen (including a fridge with complimentary soft drinks)
  • Exceptionally friendly staff take your number at check-in so anything you need is just a WhatsApp away
  • We loved the locally designed décor and the cool cubic lighting installation in the central staircase

Lows

  • Windows in street-level apartments don’t open (for security reasons)
  • Bathrooms, though stylish, with geometric tiles, are on the small side
  • Most apartments have high ceilings, however the building’s heritage means a few are partially sloped

Best time to go

Lisbon is lovely all year around, but June is possibly the most joyful month, when street parties in honour of the city’s patron saint (Anthony) are in full swing. Expect alfresco concerts, colourful decorations, barbecued sardines and a festive spirit. Late spring and autumn are also gorgeous periods, with the weather warm enough for day-trips to nearby beaches.

Our top tips

  • Love the Claus Porto toiletries in your bathroom? Head to their flagship boutique down the road and stock up – they make great souvenirs.
  • If you’ve fallen head over heels for the décor in your apartment (it’s hard not to), you can take any piece home with you – ask reception for prices.

Great for...

City Style
Family
Foodie
Spa
  • Boutique Hotel
  • 53
  • Restaurant & bar (open daily)
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Pool
  • Spa
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Laundry service
Room:

Rooms

The 53 stylish apartments come in 5 categories – Studio, One-Bedroom Apartment, Loft Style, Two-Bedroom Apartment and Penthouse. All have triple-glazed French windows facing the mirador or São Roque Church; some Studios have balconies and the Penthouses feature sun-drenched terraces.

From handwoven rugs to leather folders, everything has been custom-made by local producers. Alentejan textile hangings mix traditional artisanship with modern design, and posters by contemporary Lisboan artist Maser add an urban touch. The colour scheme is mainly monochrome with a dash of blush pink and the occasional pop of mustard or navy.

Everything about our bed was heavenly: the 100% cotton sheets and soft wool throw, the geometric head-rest and cool brass reading lamps... we slept brilliantly. Compact bathrooms have prettily-packaged Claus Porto toiletries, while gleaming white Smeg kitchens mean you can self-cater a few meals; always a bonus.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Bathrobes
  • Coffee / tea making
  • Coffee maker
  • Dishwasher
  • Full kitchen
  • Hairdryer
  • Ipod dock
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Oven
  • Phone
  • Radio
  • Safe box
  • Toaster
  • Toiletries
  • TV
  • WiFi

Eating

Headed by up-and-coming Portuguese chef João Silva, Lumi Rooftop Bar & Restaurant dishes up modern Mediterranean meals and pre-dinner cocktails (they have weekly drinks specials). We loved the sound of sweet potato gnocchi with roasted pumpkin and spinach, and alheira (traditional smoked sausage croquettes).

Quirky portraits of classic writers donning neon glasses hang on the walls of the contemporary interior, while the outside terrace offers wonderful panoramic views of the city. It's a lovely backdrop to the abundant buffet breakfasts, accompanied by eggs any style you like them.

On the ground floor is another cool culinary gem, Mercado. Well-known local chef Miguel Castro e Silva focuses on modernising traditional Portuguese classics in the open kitchen - we loved the codfish fritters, tuna and black-eyed bean salad, and the beef ‘pica pau’.

Besides these great in-house eateries, you’re also steps from the restaurant-lined Principe Real area – the concierge service are happy to give recommendations. Then again, the nearby local market produce and your snazzy Smeg kitchen might tempt you to stay in for dinner...

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Breakfast
  • Children's meals
  • Coffee / tea making
  • Coffee maker
  • Dishwasher
  • Full kitchen
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Oven
  • Restaurant
  • Restaurants nearby
  • Room service
  • Toaster
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Hop on a vintage tram from directly opposite the hotel (‘Ascensor da Gloria’) and rattle around the city; a great way to get a feel for it
  • Explore the boutiques, bars and restaurants of Lisbon’s trendy Principe Real district, steps from the hotel
  • The concierge can organise historical walking tours around the Bairro Alto or Alfama districts; or for something more adventurous, enquire about boat and heli tours
  • Ask reception if you want to hire a professional photographer for the day, to take you to the city’s most Instagrammable spots
  • It’s a 10-minute walk to the riverside Cais do Sodre neighbourhood and the hugely popular Time Out (food) market
  • Take in castle views from the nearby hilltop mirador, Sao Pedro de Alcântara
  • Day trip to Belem, from where the great explorers set off to conquer the new world
  • Work off those irresistible custard tarts on a running route provided by the hotel (you can hire a personal trainer to come with you)
  • Back at the hotel, book a treatment in the stylish spa, which also has a sauna and steam room. There's a signature 2-hour Lumiares ritual (black soap scrub, Turkish bath and full body massage), along with classic aromatherapy, beauty and shiatsu treatments

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Boat trips
  • Cooking classes
  • Historical sites
  • Museums / galleries
  • Nightlife
  • Private guided tours
  • Shopping / markets
  • Well being

Kids

Children are welcome and it’s a popular choice for families, thanks to the Two-Bedroom Apartments with a twin room, and the well-equipped kitchens. Kids also get bathrobes, slippers and a coloured water bottle. Lumi Rooftop restaurant has a kids’ menu, and there’s a babysitting service upon request. Staff were happy to accommodate our toddler’s needs, bringing meals and a highchair to our room

Best for:

All ages

Family friendly accommodation:

Studio, One-Bedroom Apartments and Loft Style can each fit a baby cot (free of charge). Note these smaller rooms are shower only. The Two-Bedroom Apartments and the Penthouse each have a queensize and twin bedroom, and can fit a baby cot (free of charge). Most of their bathrooms have a shower and tub

Baby equipment:

Baby cots and high chairs

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Children's meals:

Kids' menus in Lumi Rooftop

Kids Activities nearby:

  • National Museum of History & Science (800m)
  • Botanical Garden (800m)
  • Principe Real Garden (550m)
  • Gloria Elevator and 28 Tram
  • Kids workshops at the Farmacy Museum (600m)

Distances:

  • Airport: 9.6km (Lisbon)
  • Shop: 2 mins' walk
  • Hospital: 7km
Kid Friendly:

Location

The Lumiares is in the heart of Lisbon's trendy Bairro Alto district, opposite the Ascensor da Gloria tram.

By Air:
Fly into Lisbon airport (9.6km away). The hotel offers a transfer service or you can jump in a taxi (25 mins) or travel by metro.

Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.

Airports:

  • Lisbon Portela 9.6 km LIS

Other:

  • Beach 20.0 km
  • Shops 0.2 km
  • Restaurant 0.2 km

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests

10/10
Room
10/10
Food
10/10
Service
9/10
Value
10/10
Overall

We stayed here for two nights. The apartment was lovely and the hotel is in a very central area. It was great to be able to walk straight out into the buzzy, vibrant streets - lots of lovely bars and restaurants nearby. Breakfast on the roof terrace was a real treat. Reception staff were really nice and helpful.

10/10,

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