This elegant and colourful townhouse in central Oaxaca has had an eventful life. Built in the 1900s as a colonial home, it survived several major floods before an earthquake left it uninhabitable in 1991. The stalwart Cabrera family took a deep breath (and a big loan), vacated the house and engaged local architect Jorge Quintanar to completely remodel it into a stylish, multi-level home. In 2001, it was reborn as an intimate and successful guesthouse, before changing to its current format of a house rental - still with the Cabreras at the helm.
At its heart is a peaceful stone patio, around which are arranged the 3 bedrooms, the cheery yellow kitchen, the dining room and the living room, topped by a sunny cactus-filled terrace. Many traditional features are preserved - beamed ceilings, brass chandeliers, wrought-iron and ivy-covered walls - as well as some whimsical touches, like the cherub wall hangings and vintage dolls.
The welcome from Adriana and her team, who meet you on arrival and are on hand throughout your stay, is as warm as the ochre walls. They can book you a tour to the Zapotec site of Monte Alban, or the river pools of Hierve el Agua (guided by husband René); or a cooking lesson in the house's homely, well-equipped kitchen (with sister and chef Pilar). The kitchen-diner is a great space for dinner - home-cooked or otherwise - and a mezcal nightcap. Otherwise, the restaurants and markets of downtown Oaxaca are just a short walk away.
Highs
- This is a private, privileged place to stay in the heart of town
- We loved the décor - a joyful blend of modern and traditional Mexican
- Lots of semi-outdoor spaces to relax in
- Daily maid service, plus (for a small charge) freshly made breakfast
- It’s close to restaurants, shops and markets
Lows
- This is a simple, authentic townhouse, at a fitting price; don't expect gardens or a swimming pool
- The central location means there’s some street and traffic noise
- Street parking only
Best time to go
Oaxaca is ideal at any time of the year - it has a temperate climate, though there's some rain from May to October. There are festivals throughout the year, including Semana Santa (Easter), Guelaguetza (a dance festival held during the last 2 weeks of July), Day of the Dead (1-2 November), and the intriguingly-named Noche de Rábanos ('Night of Radishes'!) on 23 December.
Our top tips
Don’t be shy about signing up for a private cooking class with La Olla’s head chef Pilar Cabrera. It’s a fun half-day of shopping (she’ll take you round the local market), chopping (you’ll be hands-on assembling the food), cooking - and, of course, eating it all in your own cheery yellow kitchen. We helped to prepare tamales and tortillas alongside delicious dishes chosen from Pilar’s cookery book.
- House Rental
- 3 bedrooms
- Self-catering (cook on request)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Laundry Service
Rooms
The 3 double bedrooms are kept pristine by the daily housekeeping staff, and all have crisp white walls, beamed ceilings, tiled floors and beautiful furniture specially designed by local woodworkers Mobili Piave. All have ensuite shower rooms - the house used to operate as a B&B - as well as air-conditioning, ceiling fans, reading lamps, TV and plentiful wardrobe space.
There's one ground-floor room, set off the interior courtyard, which boasts angel sculptures and a full-length pewter mirror decorated with wings. There’s also a tiny garden and stone fountain which we thought heavenly: the fountain runs with recycled water, so we had no qualms about falling asleep to the sound of trickling water. Also on the ground floor are a spacious sitting room and the kitchen-diner, which is the heart of the house.
Upstairs are two further double rooms: one larger, with its own balcony overlooking the patio, and one smaller, with panelled walls and views onto the roof terrace.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Fan
- Safe box
- TV
- WiFi
Eating
You have free run of the cheery yellow kitchen to prepare meals, snacks and drinks. There's all the equipment you need: a 4-ring stove, a fridge, a microwave, a toaster, a coffee maker, purified water, a blender, dishes and utensils; even an iron and ironing board if you want to look freshly pressed for dinner. A nearby supermarket is handy for stocking up on provisions, or you can hire a cook to do the hard work for you.
You can also pre-book a hearty breakfast if you're feeling lazy: we tucked into traditional egg and tortilla dishes - huevos rancheros, chilaquiles de huajillo, omelets de queso con salsa de espinacas - alongside breads, pastries, juices, coffee and tea.
Oaxaca has become something of a Mecca for foodies and Adriana can recommend and book any number of restaurants if you want to eat out. A favourite of ours was La Biznaga - we visited twice to enjoy La Enredosa (a delicious soup of spaghetti strips, chorizo, fresh cream and chillies). Or for tasty Oaxacan dishes try La Olla, run by another family member, Pilar.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Chef on request
- Meal delivery service
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Take a walking tour of Oaxaca: the Graphic Arts Institute, the Contemporary Art Museum, the beautiful churches of Santo Domingo de Guzmán and Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, the regional museum and the cathedral
- Go shopping in the markets for rugs, pottery, Panama hats, guayabera shirts, basketry, hammocks, masks, embroidered textiles, toys, blown glass, bark paper paintings, filigree silver, leather goods, sombreros, wrought iron, wooden figurines, tinwork, pewter, even guitars
- Sit in one of the many cafés around the Zócalo (Oaxaca’s main square) and soak up the local atmosphere
- Or go on a guided tour of local villages, including stops at craft stalls, the oldest tree in the Americas at Santa María del Tule, and the Zapotec sites of Monte Albán, Mitla and Yagul
- Mountain bikes and horse-riding can be arranged through local agencies if you want to see the area on 2 wheels or 4 legs
- Relax on the roof terrace with a good book and a cold beer
- Treat yourself to a revitalising temazcal (steam bath) treatment - ask Adriana for details
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Cooking classes
- Cycling
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Horse riding
- Mountain biking
- Museums / galleries
- Nightlife
- Private guided tours
- Shopping / markets
- Traditional cultures
Kids
Children of all ages are welcome, though there are no cots for babies and the house is better set up for families with older kids. The kitchen is useful for preparing meals and snacks, and the location is ideal for shops, cafés and restaurants.
Best for:
Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Babysitting:
Babysitting is available by arrangement.
Families Should Know:
The house is arranged on multiple levels, with no stair gates
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
La Casa de los Milagros is located in the centre of Oaxaca, a provincial city about 500km south of Mexico City.
By Air
Oaxaca Xoxocotlán International (10km away) is the closest airport. It's served by domestic flights, plus occasional services from the US. If coming from the US, or wanting to combine Oaxaca with the coast, you'll find there are more flights to Bahías de Huatulco (270km away). If you're coming from Europe, you’ll probably fly into Mexico City (500km away), from where there are about 10 daily flights to Oaxaca.
Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.
From the Airport
From Oaxaca airport you can either take a taxi or hire a car (see below). If coming from Huatulco, you'll need to drive or take the air taxi service to Oaxaca.
By Bus
First-class bus services operate regularly between Oaxaca and Mexico City (6 hours), Pochutla (7 hours), Puerto Escondido (9 hours), San Cristóbal de las Casas (12 hours), Tehuacan (6 hours) and Villahermosa (14 hours).
By Car
Having the use of a car makes exploring further afield easier, but watch out for the potholed roads. See our car rental recommendations. There's no off-street parking at La Casa de los Milagros, but you can normally find a space on the road outside.
Detailed directions are provided when a booking is confirmed. 
More on getting to Mexico and getting around
Airports:
- Oaxaca Xoxocotlán 10.0 km OAX
- Bahías de Huatulco International 270.0 km HUX
Other:
- Beach 250.0 km
- Shops 0.4 km
- Restaurant 0.5 km