The Old Markets

Symi, Greece Book from Book from £149 per night

An intimate, elegantly restored hotel overlooking Symi’s pretty horseshoe harbour

Amid the well-heeled holidaymakers jostling off the ferry, an unruffled figure in white stood out from the crowd. Andrew Davies, a soft-spoken Englishman, had come down to Symi’s pastel-hued harbour to escort us to his beautifully restored boutique hotel. He led us past glitzy yachts and ritzy restaurants, up well-worn steps and winding alleys, until we came upon some kittens romping outside an ornate wrought-iron gate.

This is the old market, where sponges, spices, and silver were traded from 1884. Although a listed monument, the market had lain in ruins since it was bombed in 1944. After 5 years of painstaking restoration, a quietly opulent hotel emerged from the rubble, combining contemporary pleasures (percale linens, rain showers) with original features (flagstone floors, stone arches). In 2016, the neighbouring Captain's Mansion joined the ensemble, along with a secret courtyard garden and a lovely indoor pool. Our dream is to rent the whole place with friends – after all, the owners and their charming staff make you feel like special guests rather than paying customers.
Covid update: see our Flexible Booking Policy.


  • Genuine, personal, but thoroughly professional service from real island insiders
  • Ideal location in the heart of the harbour but away from the hustle
  • Superb à la carte Champagne breakfast served until 12 noon
  • The special pleasure of staying in a listed monument with every modern comfort
  • The hotel's rooms and suites span two properties (next door to each other), both with lovely harbour views


  • Lots of steps to and from the hotel - so not suitable for those with limited mobility
  • An indoor pool only and the nearest beach is a 20-minute walk or a short boat ride away
  • Because of strict building restrictions, there are some quirky architectural features like sloping floors
  • Not all rooms and suites have views

Best time to go

The best time to visit are the months of May, June and September. The annual Symi Festival (July – September) hosts free concerts, screenings, and performances in various venues. August can be incredibly busy.

The Old Markets is open from May 1 to October 31. During the winter, it is available on request for exclusive use only.

Our top tips

Rhodes and Symi make a perfect twin-centre holiday – fly direct to the island of Rhodes, spend a couple of days there doing the well-known cultural attractions, then catch a local ferry to untouristy Symi. Here you can explore castaway pebble beaches giving onto deep blue translucent waters, backed by rocky slopes peppered with fragrant herbs.

Day trippers and cruise boats from Rhodes descend on Symi around 11am and depart around 5pm, so it’s a good idea to escape the harbour during those hours.

Great for...

  • Boutique hotel
  • 10 rooms
  • Breakfast (+ other meals on request)
  • Best for older children
  • Open all year
  • Indoor Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Concierge Service


Rooms are divided between the original Main Hotel and the adjacent Captain’s Mansion – there are plans to connect them with a bridge. Andrew scoured antique markets for maps, silverware, and lamps. All technology is cleverly concealed to preserve the period mood. Thoughtful details abound - lightweight beach towels, a well-edited selection of travel books and Turkish delight at turndown.

Each of the Main Hotel rooms leading off the galleria is inspired by a trade route that once supplied The Old Markets. The Ottoman Room, features a spectacular hammam-style bathroom and has a domed brick ceiling converted from an original baker’s oven. It’s charming, but better for shorter stays. The Venetian Room references Symi’s sponge trade, with period antiques and paintings of Venice. The Arabian Room, shot through with purple and navy silks, has carved bedheads and an open-plan bathroom, stocked with organic Korres toiletries.

At the top of the galleria, it’s worth paying the premium for The Symi Suite, with its delicate stencilling on the soaring ceilings. The 2-metre square bed is extra high, so you can gaze at the view. It was a joy to fling open all 5 shutters in the morning. Apart from occasional rumblings from the nearby bars, mostly we were stirred by the soothing sounds of ship horns, fluttering sails, and church bells.

Opened in 2016, the Captain’s Mansion is nestled next door to the original hotel and centres on a courtyard garden with magnificent pink bougainvillea. Here you'll also find the pool house.

The vast Aegean Suite is ideal for families, with a stunning double-height lounge and a balcony looking down onto Symi harbour. There's a mezzanine double bedroom, and two singles in separate areas of the lounge. Honeymooners might prefer the hideaway Ouranos Suite, perched at the top of the building, with a light-filled lounge and a bedroom with harbour-view balcony. The Nimos, Chondros and Stroggilos Rooms have whitewashed walls and white bedspreads, with duck-egg blue armchairs and cushions. Their bathrooms combine exposed stonework with transparent glass washbasins and slick modern rain-showers – how refreshing.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Bathrobes
  • Hairdryer
  • Ipod dock
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Radio
  • Safe box
  • Satellite TV
  • Terrace
  • Toiletries
  • TV
  • WiFi


Andrew is a professional chef, so eating at the hotel is a special event. Brunch classics like eggs Benedict and bacon panini are all made to order. Healthier options like homemade granola with Greek yoghurt, local honey, and artfully presented fruit are equally delicious. The peach and yoghurt smoothies are addictive.

Guests are also treated to an aperitivo on the terrace every evening, with spectacular views down onto Symi harbour. We enjoyed a well-chosen selection of Greek wines paired with delicious homemade Parmesan biscuits.

Each morning at breakfast, you get to see that evening's set dinner menu, which you can pre-order - the choice changes daily, depending how local seasonal produce inspires the chef. We had the candlelit terrace all to ourselves for a dinner of perfectly al dente pumpkin ravioli with thyme from the garden, pork tenderloin with a rich but subtle wild mushroom and saffron risotto, and chocolate torte with an unusual lavender ice cream. Service was impeccable – just the right balance of attentive and relaxed.

Beyond the hotel, Tholos Taverna is idyllically placed at the mouth of Yialos harbour, with tables right by the water. Tsati, along the waterfront, serves great mojitos and Marathouda has the best beach taverna, where hungry goats try to steal your zucchini fritters, deep-fried baby shrimps and tender calamari over the fence.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Breakfast
  • Dinner by arrangement
  • Lunch by arrangement
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Restaurant
  • Restaurants nearby
  • Room service


  • Flop on your 4-poster day bed with some of the well-chosen books in your bedroom, or book an alfresco pummelling by a local masseuse
  • Admire the silver icons and Byzantine frescoes at Panormitis Monastery, a major Greek Orthodox pilgrimage site (you can even stay overnight for free)
  • Take an all-day cruise around the island, stopping for dips at remote bays like Ayios Emilianos and a beach barbeque on the uninhabited islet of Sesklia
  • Hop aboard a water taxi to one of the dazzling pebble beaches along the island’s east coast – Ayios Yiorgos Disalonas, Nanou and Marathouda have translucent water and a ravishingly wild setting
  • Stroll along the coastal road past the pleasantly dilapidated boatyard to the sheltered bay of Nimborio as the sun sets and the moon rises
  • Climb up the steep steps of Kali Strata to Chorio (village), the old town with vertiginous views of the harbour – pausing at Kali Strata viewpoint, then calling at Lefteris, a traditional kafenio on the village square, for ouzo and octopus (Yiorgos and Maria’s taverna next door has legions of devoted fans and live music at weekends)
  • Symi is an ideal starting point for a sailing trip around nearby islands like Halki, Kastellorizo, Nissyros, and Tilos – all of which are under-the-radar and unspoiled. The most stylish way to cruise the archipelago is on an elegant wooden Turkish gulet.

    Activities on site or nearby include:

    • Boat trips
    • Cooking classes
    • Hiking
    • Historical sites
    • Museums / galleries
    • Nightlife
    • Private guided tours
    • Sailing
    • Snorkelling
    • Swimming
    • Well being
  • Kids

    Due to the historic nature of the hotel and steep steps, the property may be problematic for small children. Older children are welcome and the Aegean Suite offers spacious accommodation for a family of 4.

    Kid Friendly:


    The hotel overlooks the historic harbour and is in the heart of Symi, the main town on Symi island in the Dodecanese Islands, Greece. Symi Town is sometimes divided into Gialos (or Yialos, the harbourside part) and Chorio (or Horio, the upper town).

    By Air
    The nearest airport is Rhodes Diagoras Airport, serviced several times a day by domestic airlines from Athens, Thessaloniki and Crete. It’s a 45-minute flight from Athens.

    It’s often cheaper (and certainly quicker) to catch a charter flight direct to Rhodes (or Kos) from the UK and several other European countries. Most charter flights operate from May-October.

    By Sea
    From Rhodes airport, it’s a 20-minute taxi (or bus) ride to the harbour. Boats leave from different harbours, so be sure to check in advance. Dodekanisos Seaways operates high-speed hydrofoils to Symi once or twice a day; the journey takes about 1 hour.

    The slower (and cheaper) ANES ferries take 1hour 40 minutes – but often stop at Panormitis Monastery in southern Symi first, making it a much longer journey.

    There is also an erratic and painfully slow ferry service from the port of Piraeus in Athens, which takes around 19 hours. A ferry from Piraeus to Rhodes takes 12-18 hours.

    By Car
    Car hire is not necessary. There are very few roads on Symi, and parking is very limited in the harbour (Yialos) and village (Chorio), which are mostly pedestrianised. Some beaches are accessible by footpaths, but even most far-flung bays are accessible by water taxi. You can also rent your own motorboat (just past the clock-tower, near where the ferries dock). A ‘driver’ costs extra.

    Detailed directions will be provided when you book through i-escape.


    • Rhodes 30.0 km RHO
    • Kos 60.0 km KGS


    • Beach 0.3 km
    • Shops 0.1 km
    • Restaurant 0.1 km

    Rates for The Old Markets

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