The Plantation Lodge

near Ngorongoro, Northern Circuit, Tanzania Book from

An immaculate privately-owned lodge set in lush, subtropical gardens within easy reach of Lake Manyara and the Ngorongoro Crater
This is a great place to break a journey between Arusha and the Serengeti, and you'll remember your arrival at Plantation Lodge. A bumpy dirt track cuts in from the dusty main road by way of a vast coffee plantation, past tin-roofed shacks and waving children, to end at a sweep of lawn so green and so perfect, it could be lifted from deepest Oxfordshire. Beyond this emerald carpet, exuberant stands of agave, acacia, mango and bamboo, towering silver oaks, jacarandas and ficus trees teeming with multi-coloured birdlife, remind you that, yes, you're still in Africa - and a delectable corner of it to boot.

The guest suites and cottages fan out around the original coffee lodge, which feels straight from the pages of Karen Blixen: polished terracotta and screed floors, high garden-facing French windows, Planter-style furniture, whirling overhead fans and masses of African memorabilia like carvings, wall hangings and watercolours of the bush. The mood is cool and measured, one of respite and retreat: Plantation Lodge offers a perfect foil to the exertion and exhilaration of a Tanzanian safari.


  • Just a 30-minute drive to Lake Manyara and 20 minutes to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, one of Africa's most stunning wildlife parks
  • Rooms are big and airy with plenty of space between you and your nearest neighbours
  • Beauty is in the detail: the exacting standards of German owner/manager Renata mean that every corner of the lodge has a cared-for and polished feel
  • The lodge can sleep up to 40 yet still has a really intimate, personal vibe and you can choose between several different dining areas
  • Family friendly and there's a group house with children's facilities


  • We found the staff a tad too deferential in what is, after all, post-colonial Tanzania
  • Larger groups sometimes book several suites and cottages, but you can always find a quiet spot if you prefer your own company
  • Needs to be booked well in advance

Best time to go

This area is amazing at any time of year but expect heavy rain if visiting during the 'Long Rains' which last from April through to May, sometimes on into June. There's a second bout of wet weather, the 'Short Rains', between October and early December. And, of course, the Serengeti migrations will be important in deciding when to visit. In February and March the green pasturelands of the southeastern end of the park are covered with calving wildebeest. June is the time to see the migration crossing the Grumeti river whilst the better known, perilous crossing of the Mara river at the Park's northern end takes place in July and August. But because most of Ngorongoro's animal life is sedentary you'll see masses of wildlife there at any time of year.

Our top tips

The Zanzibar Chest (Aidan Hartley) is a great holiday read: the early chapters give a fascinating insight into the area around Arusha during the early Nyerere years.

Great for...

Great Outdoors
  • = Recommended
  • = Best in region
  • = World favourite
  • Boutique Hotel
  • 16
  • All meals included
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Outdoor Pool
  • Spa
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
Room: Eucalyptus Cottage


If the configuration of rooms and suites varies a great deal, the standard of finish and level of comfort is top notch throughout the lodge. All are diaphanous spaces with polished black screed floors, high ceilings and masses of windows that draw your eye out to the gardens. Watercolours of Tanzanian wildlife, Indian bedspreads, vases of cut flowers and bright silk cushions add a dash of colour to a decorative palette that sticks mostly to whites, blacks and browns. Bathrooms are in the same big, functional and pristine vein as your sleeping space.

The Garden House, with 4 ensuite doubles, and the Coffee House, with 2 enormous suites, each have dining and sitting rooms and are perfect for small groups.

The Zanzibar and Bamboo Houses are good options for families. Both have 1 double and 1 twin room, which share a bathroom. Plantation House, with 2 interconnecting rooms, could comfortably accommodate a family of 5.

Couples are often lodged in the Forest House or in the Eucalyptus House, we like how secluded and private they felt, though they do have twin beds. Jacaranda House is billed as the honeymoon suite and comes with a kingsize double and a bath. However, we found its position, close to the main lodge and next to the path leading up to reception, less romantic than several of the other garden cottages.

Features include:

  • Bathrobes
  • Central heating
  • Cots Available
  • Extra beds
  • Fireplace
  • Mosquito net
  • Toiletries


Meals here are moveable feasts. There are 5 different dining rooms spread out amongst the different houses and main lodge, as well as a number of alfresco eating areas. And wherever you choose to eat you'll have attentive service lavished upon you by P.L.'s uniformed staff.

Breakfast kicks off early: most guests want to make sure they're one of the first through Ngorongoro's main gate. In addition to a buffet of cold meats, cheeses, carton juice, a choice of cereals and a seasonal fruit salad, there are eggs cooked to order.

Guests tend to be out on game drives at lunchtime so box lunches - you get a couple of sandwiches, a slice of quiche, some kind of cold meat, fruit and a juice. But if you're picnicking in the Crater or beside the Manyara Lake your meal will still be a memorable one. Lunch back at the lodge is a light repast of salad, pasta, or perhaps an omelette.

Dinner always feels like a special occasion. Your table will be candlelit and beautifully dressed in all-white linen and crockery then strewn with petals of frangipani or bougainvillea. Dinners follow a 4-course formula. Ours began with seafood tagliatelle, followed by roast beef accompanied by veg which had been picked the same day in their garden. The meal ended with a scrummy dessert of grilled pineapple and mango topped with homemade ice cream. Award-winning Tanzanian coffee provided a perfect finale.

Features include:

  • All meals included
  • Bar
  • Children meals


  • Indulge in a bit of R&R by the pool then treat yourself to a neck and shoulder massage with the lodge's masseuse
  • Visit Lake Manyara and Ngorongoro Crater (20-minute drive) parks, both an easy 30-minute drive from the lodge. Ngorongoro, a Unesco site, has over 25,000 animals living in its crater: keep your eyes peeled for zebra, buffalo, antelope, lions, black rhinos, hippos and elephants, as well as the Maasai who graze their cattle here. Lake Manyara park is great at night with porcupines, civets, bushbabies and perhaps leopards
  • Walk out through the gardens and surrounding coffee plantations to the local market and get a less closeted take on Tanzania. Afterwards, take a guided tour of a neighbouring plantation or farm and learn about the lifecycle of a coffee bean
  • Birdwatch from the privacy of your terrace or from a corner of the gardens: Fischer’s lovebirds and yellow-bellied sunbirds are regular visitors, or the staff can give you a tour of the gardens and point out birds en route
  • Take a hike through the Empakaai Crater and take in spectacular lake views, teeming with flamingoes and pelicans. Other hikes lasting from 1 - 3 hours follow the edge of the Great African Rift Valley
  • Put time aside to talk to Renata about changing times in Tanzania and her love affair with the country

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Birdwatching
  • Hiking
  • Safaris
  • Shopping / markets
  • Traditional cultures
  • Well being
  • Wildlife


Kids are welcome at Plantation Lodge. They would get good measure out of the extensive gardens and pool, and there are rooms which have been designed specifically with families in mind.

Children up to 2 years old stay for free, 2 - 6 year olds are charged 50% of the rate if sharing with parents, 6+ year olds in in own room full pay adult rate.

We've rated it best for kids aged 4 and up largely because the game drives are better if you're quiet and can concentrate...but we know there are exceptions out there.

Best for:

Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

The Zanzibar Suite and Bamboo Family Unit both have a double and twin bedroom; The Plantation House has interconnecting bedrooms, and can sleep up to 5.


Babysitting is available by arrangement.

Baby equipment:

  • Baby cots
  • High chairs

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Children's meals:

You may need to request an early dinner for smaller kids or something less extravagant in the evening in general for them; otherwise, breakfast, packed lunches and afternoon tea are all perfectly child-friendly.

Kids Activities on site:

  • Group house with kids facilities
  • Swimming pool
  • Extensive gardens with great bird watching

Kids Activities nearby:

  • Ngorongoro Crater is 20 minutes away
  • Lake Manyara is 30 minutes away
  • There are also markets, villages and coffee plantations to visit

Families Should Know:

Kids need to be good at travelling to tackle this kind of safari trip - ideally, you'd stay here for 3 days then move on to another stop. The pool is unfenced and some balconies have wide slats along the rails so aren't ideal for tinies.


  • Airport: 190km (Kilimanjaro International Airport)
Kid Friendly:

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