B&B Kapi Country

Alghero, Sardinia, Italy Book from Book from £73 per night

Just outside enchanting Alghero, a 2-bedroom B&B of perfect simplicity
There are some places where, within minutes of arrival, you know you've struck gold. This is one. After following a small country lane into olive-speckled hills outside Alghero, we swung up a steep drive and, as if by magic, the gate slid open. Pierpaolo was waiting on the flower-fringed lawn, along with his amiable collie Frida and purring tabby Lola, to show us into our spotless rooms. Within minutes, we felt completely at home, relaxing on deckchairs with chilled vermentino from the refreshingly priced honesty bar, while we plotted seafood dinners in Alghero and secluded swims on Stintino's white-sand beaches.

Having moved here in 2009, Pierpaolo and his partner Carlo (hence Ka-Pi, their initials) spent 5 years gutting and rebuilding the outhouse, transforming it into 2 small but perfectly formed double bedrooms, with a shared kitchen-diner and pretty gardens out front. Comfy kingsize beds, deluge showers and double-glazed French windows ensure you wash and sleep well. Pierpaolo whisks up delicious breakfasts on the terrace, then hands you a stylishly striped beach bag with a zipped cooler, orange towels and a parasol. You couldn't be in better hands.

Highs

  • Your hosts are generous to a fault, and full of local insights (Pierpaolo's day job is organising group tours)
  • Pierpaolo makes one of the best breakfasts we've had in Sardinia
  • A lovely rural setting, yet only 4km from Alghero and its beaches - you could even cycle there
  • Alghero's historic honey-stoned centre, hugged by sea walls, is one of the Med's unsung jewels
  • Perfect for a couple on a budget; even better for 2 couples travelling together

Lows

  • You could feel quite cosy with the other guests: terrace, lawn and kitchen are shared
  • No kids, unless taking the 2 rooms together (note that both are double-bedded)
  • No pool and no A/C, but it's very well insulated, and sliding mozzie nets allow for through drafts
  • Tricky to find, and the driveway is steep (exit slowly)
  • When Pierpaolo is away, you can only book the "whole cottage (self-catering)" option, not individual rooms on a B&B basis; but Francesco, who deputises as a meet-and-greet, speaks good English

Best time to go

Alghero has the rare virtue of being a year-round city (though flights there may not be); we think it's at its best in April-May and late September-October, if you can get away then. Summer sees street theatre, concerts and exhibitions - and attendant crowds. Winter is great for cobweb-busting coastal hikes, and you can normally brave a swim as late as November.

Our top tips

For a lovely week away, combine a stay here with a few days in beautiful Bosa, 50km south. Take the magnificent coast road one way, stopping at La Speranza beach for a swim and pasta with scampi; and return inland via the sleepy village of Padria, where you can fill up on tasty penne with wild boar and porcini in the humble Trattoria da Giovanna (at the end of the village, turn left at the church).

Great for...

Beach
Cheap & Chic
  • Boutique B&B
  • 2
  • Breakfast only
  • Welcome if taking both rooms
  • Closed: 16 Dec 2018 - 27 Mar 2019
  • Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Bicycles Available
  • Laundry room
Room:

Rooms

Both bedrooms are smallish, but serve their purpose well. Expect comfy mattresses, silky linens, good bedside lights and double-glazed French windows which shut out any nocturnal barking. There's no A/C but the high pitched roof is well insulated, and sliding mosquito nets allow for through drafts (if you don't mind the dawn light creeping in too). Pierpaolo salvaged the original doors and reused them as frames for a quartet of sun-bleached roof tiles or ancient iron keys - an artful touch, we thought.

Ensuite bathrooms have deluge showers, lovely gels, towelling robes and, for a dash of designer humour, an oversized lightbulb hanging from a thick red cord.

Both rooms - there's nothing to choose between them - open onto the terrace and garden, with their own bamboo armchairs and breakfast table. The shared guest kitchen is between them, so you won't hear any neighbour noise.

Features include:

  • Bathrobes
  • Beach towels
  • Beach umbrellas
  • Central heating
  • Hairdryer
  • Mosquito net
  • Safe box
  • Terrace
  • Toiletries
  • WiFi

Eating

Pierpaolo's breakfast is a highlight of any stay here. He lays out a wonderful spread on linen tablecloths in the garden, much of it homemade, including his own blended juice of the day (ours was carrot, pineapple, apple and ginger - a great pick-me-up), his mother's cookies, Carlo's juicy lemon drizzle cake, and marmalade from their bitter orange tree. There's local ham and pecorino, treacly coffee served in espresso pots and whatever else takes their gourmet fancy. Don't plan to rush off.

For dinner, they can suggest restaurants in Alghero to suit most budgets and flavours, from novel pizzas (think gorgonzola and pear) at La Botteghina, to upscale seafood at La Guinqueta (we sampled impeccable skate, cuttlefish, squid and sesame-encrusted swordfish on the 'pescador' menu).

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Breakfast
  • Guest kitchen
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Alghero is one of Sardinia's loveliest towns, with Siracusa-esque sea walls enclosing cobbled lanes and handsome pastel houses; there are churches, boutiques, gelaterie and superb Catalan-influenced seafood
  • Boat excursions take you across the pine-fringed bay of Porto Conte to the sea caves and sheer rock stacks of Capo Caccia; the best is the Andrea Jensen - a wooden ketch with real sailing, great lunches and dolphin sightings
  • Fine sandy beaches stretch west and south, or drive up to the Stintino peninsula for stunning white sands: La Pelosa is the pin-up (turquoise shallows and bronzed crowds), Rena Maiore near Biancareddu offers cliff-backed solitude (ask Pierpaolo for directions)
  • Hike up 316-metre Mt. Timidone, an hour's marked trail from Le Prigionette park gate (small entrance fee), looking out for mouflons, albino donkeys and griffon vultures; or the macchia-covered hills above the ghost silver-mining village of Argentiera (get the Rother guidebook)
  • Taste crisp Vermentino wines at Sella e Mosca (5pm daily, free tour, small tasting fee), or ask Pierpaolo to fix you up with a more personalised experience at a smaller cantina

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Boat trips
  • Cycling
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Horse riding
  • Private guided tours
  • Sailing
  • Shopping / markets
  • Snorkelling
  • Swimming
  • Windsurfing
  • Wine tasting

Kids

Children are only accepted if you take both rooms, and as both are double-bedded that's not ideal. But for a couple with an older child, or 2 well-behaved children who are happy to share a double bed, it's not a bad option. You get free run of the small kitchen, a supply of beach towels and parasols, plus an adorable dog and cat to pet. But there's no pool.

Location

B&B Kapi Country is set 4km outside the coastal town of Alghero in northwest Sardinia. It's 2 hours west of Olbia and 3 hours north of Cagliari.

By Air:
Ideally, fly into Alghero (the airport is just 14km away, but flights are limited); otherwise into Olbia or Cagliari. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.

From the Airport
You could take a taxi from Alghero, but you'll probably need transport while you're here, so it's best to hire a car from the airport (see our car rental recommendations). You can park safely inside the gated drive, though be aware that the driveway is steep.

By Ferry:
Sardinia is served by car ferries coming from Italy (Genoa, Livorno, Rome - Civitavecchia, Naples, Palermo etc), and also from France (Marseille and Corsica). The latter arrive in Porto Torres which is just 50km / 50 mins' drive from the B&B.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.

More on getting to Sardinia and getting around

Airports:

  • Alghero (Fertilia) 14.0 km AHO
  • Olbia 140.0 km OLB

Other:

  • Beach 5.0 km
  • Shops 4.0 km
  • Restaurant 4.0 km

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 8 independent reviews from i-escape guests

8/10
Room
8/10
Food
9/10
Service
9/10
Value
9/10
Overall

We had a wonderful time at Kapi Country. After a first night in Alghero, it was blissful to be out in the peace of the country and the B&B lived up to the i-escape description and reviews. The room was great with a fantastic outlook across the valley (also an amazing view to have from the outdoor shower). The welcome could not have been friendlier and Pier's tips were spot on.
Breakfast was exceptional - a delicious fruit smoothie and wonderful selection of ham, cheese and pastries, all of the highest quality. The extras were also terrific, a beach bag in the room, loan of cooler and umbrella, the honesty bar... Very highly recommended, we would love to go back.

10/10,

What a lovely, welcoming place overlooking a beautiful Sardinian valley. The breakfast was one of the best I've ever had - lots of different choices and fresh, pure ingredients. Room was pristine and staff so helpful and friendly. Would most definitely recommend!

10/10,

Pierpaulo and Carlo were excellent hosts, providing great suggestions for excursions as well as really fabulous breakfasts - homemade juices were so good! Super comfy beds and flexible breakfast time to suit us. Service was exceptional - Pier made sure they were in for our early arrival. Location is incredibly relaxing with views over beautiful verdant valleys and the vibrant Alghero a short drive or cycle away. Great for a few days R&R or exploring fantastic stretch of coastline. Will recommend.

10/10,

A lovely room with a beautiful terrace for breakfast. The food was generous in quantity and variety and the daily smoothie was a regular treat. A warm welcome from Pierre-Paolo included Information about outings and restaurant options which was all really helpful. Arriving in April we had the added treat of fantastic flowers on the cliffs and in the hedgerows. A car is essential as the property is too far out of town to walk, but we had no problems parking when we went into Alghero for dinner.

10/10,

The room was beautifully decorated; homely yet exceptionally stylish but in the bathroom the shower and basin drained extremely slowly. The extra touches like a beach umbrella, cooler bag and beach bag were very thoughtful and helpful. Pier was such an amazing host.

9/10,

Excellent place to stay - Sabina was lovely and treated us very well whilst Pierre was away. Frieda (the dog) was always around making us feel happy!!

10/10,

We particularly appreciated the very peaceful location, the excellent outside space, the welcoming and very informative Pierpaolo and Carlo, and the very friendly Frida. We only managed a small portion of the area's many attractions and will surely be back!

10/10,

Modern, airy and elegant room in a small independant house for 2 guest couples (or a familly). Sitting room shared with the second room, with all the amenities. Pleasant tiny garden with a table, chairs and deckchairs for each room, plus view on the valley. Ten minutes by car to Alghero old town. Rather quiet place despite a country road running in front of the garden and house. Bicycles available to explore the surroundings. Our young hosts (the nephew of the owner and his friend) were charming and very attentive. Excellent breakfast. We loved this place.

10/10,

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