Rooms

Imagine if the Medicis gave the Mayans decorating tips: walls are a burnt apricot, offset by terracotta stone floors and oxblood wood furniture. Beds are baroque, dressed in Egyptian cotton, on podiums and piled high with embroidered silk cushions stacked against varnished headboards. Include marbled sinks, ceramic sculptures, pewter mirrors… we loved the Italianate opulence of the suites.

That doesn’t mean they aren't comfortable. Inside our sumptuous Deluxe Suite we lounged on gold-satin sofas grouped around crimson flowers on a lustrous redwood table; outside on our porch we were lulled by birdsong while rocking on wicker chairs. Above us were the 2 Junior Suites with slightly larger balconies, the whole thatched-roof structure surrounded by succulent foliage. At the back of the giant palapa that houses the restaurant and reception were 2 more Deluxe Suites - good for families as they either have two double beds apiece or an extra one can be added, and an indoor sitting area.

Between these two buildings sits the Presidential Suite: a coral-coloured bungalow with square pillars supporting a pyramid roof of magnificent Mayan sculptures. Its bed is an elevated 4-poster bed draped with white muslin; its covered veranda cool with sleek cane furniture, textured wall art and tropical plants.

Since our visit, a Queen Suite has also been added - we're yet to personally view it, the private plunge pool sounds perfect for lazy afternoons.

All the suites have air conditioning and ceiling fans - there are screens on the back-facing and side windows, but mosquitoes are kept firmly at bay with the snug-shutting wooden louvres. Bathrooms are big, with tiled shower rooms and Botanics toiletries; mini-fridges are stocked with complimentary (except for Junior Suites) wine and beer; the WiFi is falter-free and there is an iPod docking station in the Presidential Suite. A Mayan queen wouldn’t find fault.

Features include:

• Fan
• Hairdryer
• In-room treatments available
• Minibar
• Mosquito net
• WiFi

Eating

Breakfast at Quinta Chanabnal might be fresh fruit with honey and a mango lassi or it could be motuleno - eggs, cheese, ham and plantain in a creamy pea sauce with chillies. Whether you like a light or filling start to your day, served in your room or in the dining room, the hotel is accommodating. It will even prepare breakfast as early as 6am, for those guests who want to visit the Palenque ruins in the cooler morning hours.

On the road to the ruins is the hippy hangout of El Panchan, a tree-canopied collection of cabanas and cafes - a good lunch stop here is Don Mucho, especially for the wood-fired pizzas. If you are skipping the sun temples and sun worshipping by the hotel’s pool instead, simple lunches such as chicken club sandwiches and liquidas (fruit juice and milk) will be brought to you by smiley waiters.

Those same waiters will be quietly hovering amongst the candle-lit tables at dinner, perhaps pouring you a glass of Mexican Cabernet before your starter of sopa azteca arrives. The menu features traditional dishes of the Tabasco and Chiapas region and is printed in English, Spanish and Mayan. Me yik' ot jo' ox is Mayan for lamb in annatto (saffron) sauce - delicious in any language. Evening meals are heavy on the meat front (marinated rabbit, beef tongue in chipotle gravy) but there is seafood (fish wrapped in banana leaves or shrimp with coconut) and vegetarians can be catered for - it’s helpful to let Elizabeth know if you are one.

One healthy aspect of Quinta Chanabnal is their water - it comes from an underground spring and is safe to drink, unlike most of Mexico’s. Bottled water is also available and is complimentary.

Features include:

• Organic produce
• Restaurant
• Restaurants nearby
• Room service
• Vegetarian options

Activities

• Time travel back to the 7th-century - the Classic Mayan ruins of the ancient city of Palenque are a wonder, and time clambering the crumbling stones and wandering through the verdant jungle can feel quite mystical
  
  
• Employ an expert guide through Elizabeth - the unsettling sacrificial scenes at the Bonampak Murals (2 hours' drive) will be explained by Raphael, who speaks English, and is an ardent interpreter of this intriguing civilisation
  
  
• Wade under waterfalls - bring your swimsuit to the cascades and rapids of Agua Azul, which are spectacular and make a fun day trip with kids
  
  
• Take a Temazcal - the hotel’s authentic Mayan sweat lodge creates steam from hot stones and herbal waters and is a wonderfully cleansing experience; try the clay body rub
  
  
• De-stress - professional masseurs offer full body, reflexology and facial massages in a lovely outdoor space by the lagoon
  
  
• Slough off your skin - mud, chocolate, cocoa-cream and honey-oat face masks and body rubs will exfoliate the day’s dust away
  
  
• Soak up some rays - snacks and drinks can be brought to the sun deck by the swimming pool and cascading waterfalls
  
  
• Go birding - the lagoon has a wealth of species to spot

Activities on site or nearby include:

• Birdwatching
• Historical sites
• Museums / galleries
• Private guided tours
• Swimming
• Well being

Kids

Children of all ages are welcome and all rooms can fit extra beds or baby cots, cots are free of charge.

Best for:

Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)

Family friendly accommodation:

One Deluxe Suite in the main building is suitable for families as it has 2 double beds (as does one of the Junior Suites) and an indoor sitting area, but the Junior, Queen and Deluxe Suites can take additional people, either on rollaway beds or in an extra kingsized bed which can be placed in the room (if not already there)

Cots Available, Extra Beds Available, Family Rooms

For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection

Location

Quinta Chanabnal is located about 2km outside the town of Palenque in Chiapas, just off the main road (Carretera Palenque) that leads directly to the ruins. Chiapas is the most southerly of Mexico's states. It is about 10-11 hours drive from Mexico City, a distance of about 880km.

By Air
Palenque (5km; private or small charter flights only). The nearest commercial airport, which connects to Cancun, Merida, Mexico City etc, is Villahermosa International (2hrs from Palenque). Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.

From the Airport
From Villahermosa, either hire a car (see below) or take a bus to Palenque. You can also get a taxi or arrange a transfer, see Rates.

By Bus
First class bus services operate regularly between Palenque and San Cristobal de las Casas (5 hrs), Villahermosa (2.5 hrs) and Tuxtla (7 hrs) and leave at least twice daily to Oaxaca (14 hrs), Campeche (5hrs), Merida (9 hrs), Cancun via Chetumal and Playa del Carmen (12hrs) and Mexico City (17 hrs). For more info on bus schedules click here.

By Car
Having the use of a car makes exploring further afield easier, but watch out for the potholed roads. See our car rental recommendations.

A trip to Palenque is usually combined with a few days in San Cristobal de las Casas either before or after depending on whether you are coming from the Yucatan (Palenque first) or Oaxaca (San Cristobal first).

Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.com.

More on getting to Mexico and getting around