Reviewed by
Lucia Appleby
Nobody would guess the Santa Maria was near San Cristóbal. Say San Cristóbal and you think Zapatistas, hand-woven sweaters, rural communities, and lots of jungle. Think again. The Santa Maria is a 19th-century hacienda surrounded by corn fields near the famous multicoloured Montebello lakes.
The view from the terrace restaurant down a deep valley into the lake below will convince you that you’re in fact in the French Riviera. Take a tour around the hacienda's 8 rooms, filled with dark wood armoirs and chandeliers, and you’ll be sure that you’re in an antiques shop in Paris. But when you see the private museum (in the hacienda chapel) housing an impressive collection of 16th- to 19th-century oil paintings of religious scenes by European and Mexican artists, you’ll be completely thrown. Never mind, it must be the heat, time to have a glass of red wine before lunch. Which country are we in again?
The view from the terrace restaurant down a deep valley into the lake below will convince you that you’re in fact in the French Riviera. Take a tour around the hacienda's 8 rooms, filled with dark wood armoirs and chandeliers, and you’ll be sure that you’re in an antiques shop in Paris. But when you see the private museum (in the hacienda chapel) housing an impressive collection of 16th- to 19th-century oil paintings of religious scenes by European and Mexican artists, you’ll be completely thrown. Never mind, it must be the heat, time to have a glass of red wine before lunch. Which country are we in again?
Highs
- Beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and Montebello lakes
- Impressive collection of religious art
- Organic food grown in the gardens
- Peace and tranquility
- Hacienda style at budget prices
Lows
- The off-the-beaten-track location makes it inaccessible without a car or taxi
- You'll need transport to access the nearby ruins and lakes
Best time to go
The rainy season lasts from July to September. From November to June, it’s drier and more pleasant to explore the nearby ruins and lakes. It's a lot hotter from March to June, which may make tours around the ruins that bit more uncomfortable.
Our top tips
Take time to wander through the hacienda's lofty salons and elegant terraces - you'll find a fascinating painting or antique around every corner.