Caravan by Habitas Agafay

Rooms

There are 40 tented suites, each with kingsize or twin beds, faux-sheepskin rugs, low-slung mid-century seats and elegant lamps. Eco-bathrooms have decent showers, and there’s a small seating area outside each suite’s door.

The largest suites are the Atlas Lodges, with a kingsize bed and sliding doors onto your own private deck. The Desert Lodges have both a kingsize and single bed, sleeping three people, plus ensuite bathrooms and a private stone terrace. Our Desert Lodge was beautifully decorated with woven fabrics and earthen tones and, most importantly, stayed pleasantly warm overnight. It felt more 'room-like' than expected, thanks to a few stone walls that kept us nicely insulated.

The Dune Lodges are a similar size to the Desert Lodges and also sleep three, but they have eco-bathrooms and views over the valley. The smaller rooms are the Explorer tents, which sleep two, and are the furthest from the main hub. These do not have the stone walls of the other categories, and the eco-bathrooms are a tad rudimentary (the plastic loos don't match the luxe setting), but this is reflected in the lower rates.

Each of the sandy-hued, Berber-inspired tents are connected by stone paths. They’re tastefully decorated in ochres and creams, reflecting the landscape outside, with wooden floors and lots of Moroccan lamps and Berber rugs. The sheet thread count is high, and the mattresses are very comfortable. Note that WiFi isn't present in all rooms (and patchy at best), and there are no minibars or TVs. Think of it more as glamping rather than Waldorf Astoria luxury.

Features include:

• Bathrobes
• Cots available
• Safe box
• Terrace/balcony
• Toiletries
• WiFi

Eating

Given the lack of nearby eateries, it’s lucky that the onsite restaurant Olivar is superb. The focus here is on locally sourced, healthy and delicious food.

Meals are served in the semi-open dining veranda with its Atlas views. For breakfasts, you have a choice of three set options (Wellness, Agafay or Olivar). Whichever takes your fancy, you can expect a feast of parathas, brioches, honey, cream cheese, fig conserve, jams, peanut butter, eggs (provided by the onsite chickens), chia seed puddings and topped yoghurts. The avocado toast with vegan ceviche was delicious, and the shakshuka looked equally as tempting.

Salads naturally feature strongly and include everything from peaches and goats cheese to tapenade, but chicken, fish or beef tagine are often available. The menu changes daily, but the aubergine & almond amlou pastilla was my stand-out dish, and the Trifecta Agafay (carrot hummus, avocado hummus and tzatziki with some delicious fried tortillas) was a great way to start. Another popular dish is the lamb mechoui – slow roasted in an underground clay oven in the traditional style.

Regular cooking demonstrations in local cuisine are often held in the restaurant too, and they're free to participate in. And it’s not all clean-eating – the dessert platters are next level (the pistachio cheesecake is out of this world, or indulge in a chocolate fondant or several).

Features include:

• Bar
• Kids' meals
• Restaurant

Activities

• There are morning yoga sessions to get your day off to an invigorating start – usually followed by a splash in the plunge pool to really wake you up before breakfast
  
• Excursions on horseback into the surrounding Atlas Mountains are organised daily and there are also e-bike tours into the nearby quartz dunes and eucalyptus groves. Camel trekking in the Agafay desert is another option
  
• At the camp you can take part in a cookery or cocktail class to learn recipes that will wow people back home
  
• After dinner you can go stargazing with a professional astronomer - this doesn't come cheap but is said to be amazing
  
• Other excursions available include trips to nearby Berber villages to sample the local culture, including tea-making ceremonies and traditional rug-weaving
  
• The Wellness Centre is small but constantly introducing new treatments, usually involving the local argan oil. There are a range of massages, but also the chance to practice meditation in the desert, and other holistic activities such as classes in the medicinal properties of the plants and fauna in this seemingly barren landscape

Activities on site or nearby include:

• Boules
• Camel rides
• Cooking classes
• Cycling
• Horse riding
• Quad biking
• Stargazing
• Swimming
• Table tennis
• Tennis
• Traditional cultures
• Trekking
• Well being
• Yoga

Kids

All ages are welcome, but it's probably better suited to those with older children.

Best for:

Teens (over 12)

Family friendly accommodation:

Both the Dune Lodges and Desert Lodges can have one single bed added, so they work for a family of 3. Families of 4 would have to book adjacent Tents or Lodges.

Cots Available

Distances:

• Airport: 40 minutes

For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection

Location

Caravan by Habitas Agafay is located about 26km outside Marrakech towards the southwestern coast of Morocco.

By Air:
Fly into Marrakech Menara, which is served by international and budget airlines.

From the Airport:
Airport transfers (additional cost) are available to and from Caravan Agafay, and car rental is also available, although the vast majority of guests prefer not to self-drive.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.