“The best collection of suites and apartments in Crete’s best preserved Venetian coastal town”
Spread warren-like over the 3 floors and subterranean mezzanines of this imposing building are no fewer than 23 suites and apartments, varying hugely in size and shape. Some have a sitting area, others are split over 2 levels, a few have a second bedroom, and the Penthouse Suite boasts a private terrace with stunning views of the harbour. The ground floor rooms, which were converted from storerooms and cisterns, have vaulted brick ceilings, while others have exposed stone arches. The style is the same throughout: shiny marble or wooden floors, white-washed walls with small clusters of old etchings or prints, and striped yellow-green bedspreads of debatable colour co-ordination. Satellite TV, safe, minibar, air-con and hairdryer all work fine.
All the bathrooms are functional, with power showers, fluffy towels, plenty of hot water and pre-packed toiletries that didn’t leave me smelling of furniture polish. The more expensive suites have a Jacuzzi, a large oval bathtub and - in case the combination of these is too much for you - a bathroom phone.
Casa Delfino has a small kitchen which serves breakfast only, taken outside in the courtyard, or inside in the unlikely event of rain. Cakes, Cretan pastries, eggs, yoghurt, fruit and fresh orange juice tart up the standard offerings, while the excellent filter coffee is likely to have you lingering a bit longer than intended.
There's also a small bar by reception for pre- or post-prandial drinks. We relished a Cretan-brandy nightcap taken on the terrace of our room, between starry skies and glistening harbour lights.
For dinner, the old town of Chania positively teems with characterful, buzzing tavernas, the liveliest of which line the waterfront (be prepared to ignore the hawkers), the best of which are hidden up small alleys inland. I can recommend Antigoni (on the far end of the waterfront beyond the Porto Veneziano) for outstanding fish soup and seafood; Semiramis for better than average cooked food (butter bean stew, Cretan ratatouille called boureki and various pies); of the seafront places, Monastiri is the friendliest, the most wind-protected and serves the best food, including a ‘little devil’ (spicy sausage pieces) and a ‘nun’ (ice-cream, halva and fruit baked in an earthenware bowl). If you don’t mind a short taxi ride, book a table at the Thalassino Ayeri east of the centre, hidden down an unlikely lane but serving the freshest of fish.
Children of all ages are welcome, and Chania should keep children of all ages and persuasions amused for a few days.
The room price is normally the same whatever the occupancy, though you could try asking about reduction for under 12s.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Baby cots available on request
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking