“A former royal retreat with a prime bird's eye position above the French Riviera, between Nice and Monaco”
Each of the 12 rooms and suites is unique, but all have been effortlessly integrated into the historic architecture of the Prince’s former pad, which sprawls across a couple of different buildings in a quiet corner of Eze. None are small, and the suites are palatial. Some have exposed stone walls, others original wooden panels reused as headboards; there’s the occasional stained-glass window and grand stone fireplace. Fresh flowers, gilded mirrors, regal oil paintings and velvet drapes come as standard.
In a place as spectacular as this, it’s a shame not to have a good view. For that reason we’d skip the Standard Rooms (looking onto the village or hillside) and book at the very least a Superior or Deluxe Room, both of which have hillside and partial sea views. Although none of these rooms have open seascapes, they do have enormous bathrooms of sleek marble with basins, hidden Japanese toilets (play with remote controls if you dare!) and gorgeous rainfall showers; Deluxe Rooms have bathtubs, too. Monogrammed bathrobes, slippers and L’Occitane toiletries ensure comfort. The Elegance Rooms were added since our visit, but their bathrooms look equally sumptuous.
Both the Junior Suites and the Suites have living rooms, standalone or Jacuzzi bathtubs, and outdoor space with heavenly panoramas over the Riviera. We were lucky enough to stay in a Junior Suite a few steps from reception, in the village. Stepping through a small unassuming wooden door, we were blown away. Spread over 2 levels, we were presented with a grey marble entrance hall, a sumptuous lounge, a dressing area, 2 grand bathrooms, and an enticing bedroom leading to a balcony with views over the Med. We were like kids in a candy shop - we didn’t know which room to explore first, and took great pleasure in dashing up and down the stairs to see them all. Our favourite thing (if we were forced to choose) was the sunken Jacuzzi in our upstairs bathroom, which looked out towards the sea.
As you may expect from a chef who’s worked in many of the world’s top restaurants, Axel Wagner has developed a range of monthly changing menus encompassing impressive, artful twists on French and Mediterranean cuisine.
Having secured ourselves a table for lunch (advance booking is always required for lunch and dinner), the scene was set for our 4-course culinary extravaganza: a private dining terrace (on request), views to die for, and smiling waiters whose recommendations would steer us through the following hours. Every mouthful made us sigh, from the creamy crab topped with tangy Australian lemon caviar to the perfectly symmetrical white and green asparagus soup. Ingredients are predominantly local, with a few exceptions, but we’ll forgive any air miles required to get them to our plates. Grilled veal and fresh John Dory fillets melted in our mouths, with little more than a sprinkling of herbs and asparagus to accent the flavours. A crunchy praline bar, filled with lemon mousse and topped with spun sugar, called an end to our afternoon delight.
Breakfast, while perfectly tasty, was inevitably a little run-of-the-mill compared to our spectacular lunch. Served on the breakfast terrace or in your room, it consists of fresh fruit, yoghurt, cereals, fresh bread and mini pastries, and a few hot dishes (bacon, mini black pudding and scrambled eggs). If you’re after a slightly more decadent start to your day, order the ‘romantic breakfast’, which comes with caviar and champagne.
There are also numerous restaurants in the village to choose from, including 2-Michelin-starred La Chèvre d’Or. Seeking something a little less elaborate, we went for dinner at La Taverne, a charming cave-like restaurant serving simple but delicious Italian food. We enjoyed artichoke, asparagus and truffle ravioli and a four-seasons pizza. Small tapas plates are available back at the hotel, too.
The hotel has a grown-up atmosphere and is more suited to couples seeking a romantic retreat. That said, it does accept kids of all ages.
Extra beds are available on request in the Junior Suites and Suites, all rooms can hold a baby cot. A Superior Room can interconnect with a Suite; please request when booking.
Baby cots are available on request (free of charge).
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking