Reviewed by
Leon Beckenham
Each turn along the driveway snaking up towards Es Racó d’Artà – passing swathes of vineyards, citrus orchards, and olive groves – adds to an increasing sense of remoteness. We’re passing through its vast estate, 220 hectares of forest and farmland nestled in craggy valley surrounds in Mallorca's far eastern corner. For the final stretch we’re whisked to reception by golf cart and, upon stepping inside, met with an almost transcendental sense of Zen-like calm.
With roots trailing back to the Moors, these centuries-old stone buildings have been transformed by distinguished Mallorcan architect Toni Esteva, using his signature eye for natural materials and earthy tones. The result is a masterwork of understated luxury. All 31 suites and casitas (including a pair of villas for 4-7) exude a timeless sense of rustic minimalism. With its otherworldly spa, daily yoga and mediation sessions, and programme of outdoor activities, it appeals to those seeking silence, reflection and communion with nature. A genuine commitment to sustainability is at the heart of everything they do, and the restaurant’s kitchen draws heavily from own-grown and super-local produce. The result is a retreat in the fullest sense of the word, a blissfully secluded and serene Mallorcan hideaway, complete with five-star comforts and cinematic vistas.
With roots trailing back to the Moors, these centuries-old stone buildings have been transformed by distinguished Mallorcan architect Toni Esteva, using his signature eye for natural materials and earthy tones. The result is a masterwork of understated luxury. All 31 suites and casitas (including a pair of villas for 4-7) exude a timeless sense of rustic minimalism. With its otherworldly spa, daily yoga and mediation sessions, and programme of outdoor activities, it appeals to those seeking silence, reflection and communion with nature. A genuine commitment to sustainability is at the heart of everything they do, and the restaurant’s kitchen draws heavily from own-grown and super-local produce. The result is a retreat in the fullest sense of the word, a blissfully secluded and serene Mallorcan hideaway, complete with five-star comforts and cinematic vistas.
Highs
- A wonderfully secluded setting surrounded by scenic landscapes, woods and farmland
- We love the immaculately understated rustic-chic design, peppered with contemporary works by local artists
- And the spectacular infinity-edge swimming pool, with eco-friendly filtration and gorgeous valley vistas
- The chic, light-filled spa offers a wide choice of water-based facilities, therapies and treatments
- Free daily yoga and meditation in supremely serene spaces, plus an impressive roster of workshops and activities
Lows
- We found the WiFi connection was occasionally intermittent – but you are here to disconnect
- Rooms don’t have black-out curtains (aiding circadian rhythms) so late-sleepers would benefit from an eye-mask
- It’s a relatively long drive from the airport, though that does add to the sense of remoteness
- Minimum age of 14 and no bedrooms can be made up as twins: this is primarily a couples' retreat
- A stay here is a (justifiably) pricey indulgence
Best time to go
Unlike most hotels on Mallorca, Es Racó d’Artà is open for most of the year – thanks to its seasonal adaptability. It’s obviously great in summer, when lounging by the pool and visiting local beaches will be top of most agendas. Spring and autumn are optimum times for outdoor activities such as hiking or cycling, while yoga and meditation are compatible with any time of the year. Come winter, log fires warm several cosy lounges – and even the spa. The hotel is closed January-mid-March every year.
Our top tips
Most will head to the beaches around nearby Cala Ratjada resort, including the super-snorkel-friendly waters of Cala Agulla. However, a little further up the coast is the lesser-known Cala Torta, a beautiful little secluded cove and one of the island's prettiest. Neighbouring Cala Mesquida also offers a marvellous swathe of protected coastline and some of the best surfing on Mallorca.