“Boho-chic B&B in historic Stari Grad; also available as a self-catering house rental for 10”
The 4 rooms - Adria, Marie, Lina and Silvija - are individually styled, but all have wooden floors, exposed stonewalls, and old-fashioned windows with wooden shutters. You'll find lots of mirrors and an eclectic mix of contemporary art and exotic memorabilia - model elephants, Oriental slippers, that sort of thing. Refreshingly, there are no TVs or DVD players. Extravagantly tiled bathrooms have walk-in rain showers, Duravit fittings, fluffy towels and Aromatherapy Associates toiletries.
We slept soundly in Lina in a super-comfy kingsize bed, with a goosedown duvet, plump feather pillows, and vintage Deco lighting. We also peeped into Silvija; gorgeous, combining silver wallpaper ('Woods' by Michael Clark, 1959) with floral bed covers.
If you rent the whole house, you get use of Chris and Amanda's top-floor bedroom, with its Oriental rugs, white leather sofa and a big-screen projector for film nights. There's an Italian slipper tub in the ensuite bathroom. Steep wooden steps lead up to a small roof terrace with a barbecue and potted herbs, plus dreamy views over the terracotta rooftops.
The ground-floor living area has a slick kitchen (with tea and coffee to help yourself to) and a long dining table for communal breakfasts. If you stay on a B&B basis, you'll be treated to a generous spread of smoothies, seasonal fruit, cereals, oven-warm homemade croissants, fresh bread and a selection of jams. There's also an espresso machine for proper coffee. If you rent the whole house, the kitchen is yours to self-cater; there are grocery shops nearby.
Hvar Town dominates the travel press, but its restaurants tend to be crowded and over-priced; in contrast, low-profile Stari Grad has several outstanding eateries, with less razzle-dazzle. Jurin Podrum does a creative take on traditional Dalmatian cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh seafood, plus excellent steaks and colourful salads - Edward VIII and Wallace Simpson ate here in 1936. Nearby Konoba Pharia serves traditional local specialities, such as roast lamb and grilled tuna, plus local wine by the carafe, in a centuries-old stone courtyard.
Hidden House is peaceful, romantic and discreetly sophisticated, making it ideal for couples. Children are welcome, but there are no facilities for them. If you rented the whole house you would have use of a roof terrace.
Babies (0-1 years)
Lina and Silvija can each fit a baby cot and Sivija has a Scandinavian daybed, which can be made up for a child. A high chair is available for breakfast.