“A beautifully restored townhouse with roof-level pool, whose 10 rooms promise absolute peace despite being in the central Pelourinho district”
The 10 rooms are set over the first 3 floors of the building, and there's a lift to help with your suitcase. Sunny and light, they're simply and uniformly decorated, but instantly appealing, with vast beds (kingsize or super-king), air conditioning and double-glazed French windows to keep out night-time noise. Bed linen is high-quality cotton; bathrobes are just the ticket for padding up to the roof-terrace pool.
The ensuite bathrooms have tropical rain showers or hydro-massage tubs - superior and standard rooms have showers, deluxe rooms have tubs. Carefully rolled up towels are tied with yellow ribbon for a luxurious touch, although these were somewhat worn when we visited so hopefully they’ve been replaced.
Plasma TVs, DVD players and CD players tick the 21st century boxes whilst ceiling fans, wrought-iron bedsteads and antique dark-wood furniture hark back to colonial times. Several of the rooms enjoy magnificent views - book carefully, asking for a room on a higher floor. Most look out over the Baía de Todos os Santos (All Saint's Bay), and some rooms have an additional private balcony, ideal for sun worshipping and people watching.
The food at Casa do Amarelindo has a great reputation. Kick off your first evening with complimentary sunset cocktails on the roof terrace: there's a whole range of fruit specialities, and Gilles' Caipirinhas - especially those made with cashew fruit - come highly recommended. The restaurant itself is on the ground floor of the townhouse, and is an atmospheric place with terracotta walls, a substantial wine list and immaculately laid tables spilling out onto the terraces. The food is an inventive blend of Bahian specialities cooked in modern style: sea bass and shrimp moqueca, sautéed shrimps with lemongrass and pineapple rice, and fillet mignon with açai sauce and sweet potato fries.
A hearty and beautifully presented breakfast is served in the restaurant or, if you ask nicely, on the roof terrace (weather permitting). There's no end time, so you could remain supine for hours. Expect just-squeezed orange or guava juice, fresh fruit (mango, pineapple, guava), fresh bread, coffee, yoghurts, cakes and eggs cooked any way you want. The hotel also offers a petiscos menu, to quell any hunger pangs during the day. These tapas-style offerings include dishes like roasted banana slides with bacon or satay brochettes with a cashew sauce.
If you'd prefer something different just stroll out of the front door: there are lots of cafés and restaurants - try Uaua for a full meal and Cafelier for coffee and something snackier. And at some point be sure to try the acarajes - small spicy fried bean treats - sold on every street corner by Bahian women in traditional flowing white dresses.