“High in the profusely green hills of the Pelion peninsula, a stunningly restored village mansion with 9 rooms, a pool and a separate studio”
Each of the simple but elegant bedrooms is named after a Greek god. We stayed in Hestia (goddess of the family, house and hearth) which has, appropriately, a fireplace - a rather handsome one at that - and two ornately carved Flemish beds. These supremely comfy beds, dating from the period in which the house was built (mid 19th-century: Pelion's 'golden age'), are the highlight of this guest house. Another well-named bedroom is Hera (wife of Zeus, she stands as a symbol of family) with a cradle suitable for a younger child. Again, the bed itself is a beauty. Above it, Artemis has a draped four-poster and a small balcony shaded by a huge plane tree. We thought this the most romantic room.
Walls are painted white, cream, pale terracotta, soft green or canary yellow. Ceilings are timbered, and some are painted in traditional Pelion style; floors are of polished wood, softened by a rug. Aphrodite is distinguished by its elegant brass chandelier and stone fireplace. Chestnut windows are modestly dressed - perhaps just a touch of lace - and have shutters to keep out the light. Silence is total (apart from the occasional dog bark) and we slept soundly until late. Apollo's windows are in recessed arches. Duvets and bed linen are white and beautifully embroidered.
Just one room comes with a bath (Hera's), the rest have hydromassage showers; all are nicely kitted out with thick towels, hairdryers and lotions. There's central heating throughout, in anticipation of winter (possibly snowy) stays, and a couple of the rooms are in a new annexe.
50 metres down the lane is a simpler studio for 2-3, with a double bed, a bathroom with shower, a living area with sofa (can be used as child's bed), a wood-burner, and a pine-clad kitchenette with dining table.
This is a breakfast-only guesthouse, although afternoon snacks are available. On sunny days you eat on the terrace with the wonderful view. If the weather is cool - or if it's raining: it sometimes does here - there's a rustic-walled breakfast room in the converted stables; this also has a real fire for cosy evenings. We also liked the sitting room on the top floor with its line up of Greek windows and sweep of wooden floor. At one end is a long varnished pine table and leather armchairs for board games and cards (bring your own), at the other are low cushioned benches for lazy reading.
Breakfasts are feasts of cheeses, yogurts, honeys and charcuterie, and promise a different platter of pastries, waffles and sweet Greek delicacies each day. We loved the fresh orange juice, local fruit, perfectly cooked eggs, and the wide choice of teas. As Ward observed: "We only do breakfast, so we try to do it well" - and boy, do they succeed.
If you're happy with simple Greek food (lots of grills, pies and delicious vegetables), the village's tavernas will fit the bill; we enjoyed grilled sardines with green beans and aubergines at Drossia. You'll find a plane-shaded square with a string of cafés in this (and almost every) village; in neighbouring Vizitsa, Arhontiko taverna comes recommended. For fish dishes you should head for the coast: we enjoyed the simple seafood grills of Giorgos in Malaki (seasonal; tel 24280 94238), whose tables stand practically in the water, but there's plenty more choice in Kala Nera, Afissos etc.
If you're self-catering in the studio, which has a simple kitchenette (2-ring hob/mini-oven, small fridge, sink), you'll find two groceries in the village for the basics, and a bakery. For further supplies, head for Milies (6km). Breakfast is included in the price.
The owners welcome children of all ages, but it's really only suited to more adventurous kids. Beaches are beautiful and sandy, but require a short drive. Part of the attraction hereabouts is hiking; reluctant young walkers would not be happy.
There are 2 triple rooms suitable for families, and a room with a cot, which is free. There's also a self-catering studio apartment that sleeps 3.
Children (4-12 years)
Cots Available, Family Rooms