Costa Smeralda, in north-east Sardinia, is one of the most dazzling regions of Italy. The emerald sea speckled with wisps of sailing boats; soft curves of white beach, lapped by gin-clear waters; scented pines and barbary cactus hugging the coastline. Like the jet-setters that followed, Prince Aga Khan was captivated by its glorious beauty in the 60s, when he developed the area for upmarket tourism; today VIPs come to play on luxury boats and in glitzy nightclubs.
A minute's walk along a sandy track from Spiaggia Capriccioli, one of Costa Smeralda’s prettiest coves, is a trio of low-rise whitewashed villas with shared pool, enshrouded by gardens of aromatic myrtle and pink bougainvillea. Interiors are comfortably furnished in characterful ‘Smeralda style’: hand-painted murals, colourful tapestries, and a sprinkling of quirky trinkets from owner Geraldina. The result is stylish yet homely, and ideal for couples or families alike. Each villa is slightly different - Main House (sleeping 2-6) has a shaded outdoor kitchen built into granite rock, Stone Cottage (sleeping 2-4) has a pretty patio, and Terrace House (sleeping 2-4) has a sensational rooftop panorama over the bay; your own private VIP area.
Highs
- Unique, charming villas; owner Geraldina has delightful taste
- Wonderful sea views and huge windows and terraces to enjoy them
- Pretty Capriccioli beach is 2 minutes' walk away with turquoise sea and soft sand; you can also walk to 4 other beaches
- Self catering is a joy, thanks to fantastic fresh local produce. We loved relaxed alfresco meals, in such a gorgeous setting
- You feel hidden away but there's a wealth of activities close by: boat trips, stunning beaches and wine tasting
Lows
- It's expensive and the villas are quite small, plus rates exclude an end-of-stay clean, but you're paying for style in an exclusive area
- We've received reports of a lack of hot water in the Terrace House
- Stone Cottage is smaller than the others and lacks natural light and comfy indoor seating
- Kitchens are simple and aren't particularly well equipped
- The villas aren't well set up for colder months, and the local area tends to shut down during this time
- The pool is shared between the 3 villas, although there's plenty of space and loungers for everyone
Best time to go
High season is July and August, which are the busiest months but also a chance to see the Costa Smeralda circus. Porto Cervo is full of vast yachts, and people-watching is an activity in itself. However, the beaches and roads get very busy. Out of high season, many nightclubs and restaurants close. May and June are much quieter but in our opinion way nicer, with gorgeous spring flowers. September and October still have warm seas, and the beaches are blissfully empty.
Our top tips
Explore the coast in style - Geraldina can arrange a private yacht for the day. The crew will take you off to discover hidden coves, before treating you to spaghetti alla bottarga and Vermentino on the deck. You can even rent the boat overnight (it has 2 cabins).
- Boutique Villas
- 3 villas for 4-6
- Self-catering; restaurants nearby
- All ages welcome
- Closed: November-March
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car essential
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Twice-weekly linen change
Rooms
The 3 villas strike just the right balance between comfort, style and practicality, with cushioned bamboo sofas and chairs, padded window seats and painted wooden furniture. We loved the quirky glazed tiling on floors and in bathrooms. All have air conditioning, washing machines, TVs and WiFi.
The largest, Main House (sleeping 2-6), has a spacious and light all-in-one living/dining area and 3 bedrooms, including a single that can become a twin, and a mezzanine reading/play area. The main double has an ensuite shower bathroom and dressing room. Outside, this villa has the added bonus of a huge outdoor kitchen/dining area carved into a granite rock, with a BBQ.
Terrace House (sleeping 4) has 2 bedrooms (one twin, one double), both with ensuite shower bathrooms. Its lovely seaview terrace is the major draw - perfect for sundowners, and there’s a BBQ and loungers.
Stone Cottage (sleeping 4) is the smallest, with a double and a bunk-bed room. We liked its peaceful patio, where a BBQ, dining table and loungers are surrounded by lush greenery.
Features include:
- Hairdryer
- In-room treatments available
- Mosquito net
- Washing machine
- WiFi
Eating
Kitchens are simple, but include coffee machines, dishwashers, ovens and fridge freezers. Each villa also has a BBQ and an alfresco dining area.
Two minutes' drive away is Abbiadori, a small town with a well-stocked supermarket and fresh fish counter. There is also a gourmet deli for local delicacies and fantastic wine.
For eating out, Li Capriciolli, behind the local beach, sells drinks, coffee and ice cream, plus specialities such as Spaghetti alla Bottarga (fish roe) or Calamari Fritti. Bar Baretto is perfect for an early evening pizza and Aperol Spritz. You can also walk 10 minutes to Hotel Capriccioli, for dinner in their restaurant.
We’d also recommend driving 5 minutes up the hill to Frades La Terrazzo for amazing sunset views over the bay, a chilled DJ set and delicious antipasti with local wine. Equally good is neighbouring restaurant Belvedere, which serves Sardinian specialities like suckling pig and Sardinian lobster.
Features include:
- Barbecue
- Chef on request
- Dishwasher
- Fridge
- Full kitchen
- Hob or stove
- Microwave
- Oven
- Restaurants nearby
- Toaster
- Welcome hamper
Activities
- Keep it local and low-key: mornings by the pool, afternoons on the beach and BBQs in the evening: the good life
- Head out onto the emerald sea - Geraldina can organise a day on a beautiful wooden schooner, to cruise through the stunning Maddelena archipelago
- Pack your parasol and visit other local beaches such as Spiaggia Celva and Spiaggia di Liscia Ruja, which has a chic beach club
- Taste local vintages at award-winning vineyard Vigne Sarrau; particularly recommended are Vermentino and Cannonau
- Explore Porto Cervo: gawp at ginormous boats and join the rich and famous for a cocktail at the Yacht Club
- Drive up windy mountain routes to discover the pretty square, market and church of San Pantaleo village - the antithesis of glitzy Smeralda
- Enjoy world-class golf with breathtaking views over the Cala Di Volpe bay at the exclusive Pevero Golf Club
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Boat trips
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Plantlife / flora
- Shopping / markets
- Snorkelling
- Swimming
Kids
Smeralda Beach Houses offer a relaxing holiday for children and parents alike, and this would be a great place to rent 2-3 villas with other families. There's a shared on-site pool, big garden, and the beach is 2 minutes' walk down a car-free track. Kitchens are equipped with fridges, freezers, ovens, microwaves and washing machines; each villa has an alfresco eating area too, with a BBQ. Well-stocked supermarkets are nearby and pizza, pasta and ice cream are available at the beach restaurant Il Capricciolio.
Best for:
All ages
Family friendly accommodation:
Main House can sleep 6 in total (2 double rooms, 1 single with space for an extra bed). There are colourful murals in one bedroom with a ladder up to a mezzanine play area. Terrace House has a double and twin bedroom plus a stunning rooftop terrace for when children are asleep! Stone Cottage is quite small with one double bedroom and one bunk room, but its price reflects this.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Kids Activities on site:
Swimming pool and big garden with free-range tortoises!
Families Should Know:
There are quite a lot of steps up to the villas and the sandy track down to the beach might be tricky for buggies. Nearby supermarkets stock everything you need, including nappies, wipes, beach toys and inflatables.
Distances:
- Airport: 30-minute drive (Olbia)
- Shop: 5-minute drive
- Hospital: 30-minute drive (Olbia)
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The villas sit just above the beach in the village of Capriccioli, 8km from Porto Cervo in north-eastern Sardinia. They’re half an hour from Olbia and 2 hours from Alghero.
By Air:
Olbia airport is only 28km away, though most flights operate in the summer only. At other times of year you might have to fly into Alghero in western Sardinia (154km) or Cagliari (292km) in the south.
You’ll need to hire a car to get to the villas, and to get around the local area - see our car rental recommendations.
By Ferry:
There are sailings from mainland Italy (Genoa, Livorno, Piombino) and from Corsica to northern Sardinia (Olbia, Golfo Aranci, Santa Teresa Gallura); and from further afield (including Marseille, Barcelona) to other Sardinian ports.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Olbia 28.0 km OLB
- Alghero 154.0 km AHO
Other:
- Beach 0.2 km
- Shops 2.0 km
- Restaurant 3.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 3 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape