Famously built on 7 hills, Lisbon’s streets are calf-achingly steep. The slog to The Independente is no exception - but, wow, the views when you get here! From the Insolito rooftop restaurant you’re eye-level with the Moorish castle on the hillside opposite, while below you Baixa and Chiado sprawl down to the River Tagus.
Spread across a pair of aristocratic old townhouses - one a former ambassadorial residence - the 22 suites have a bohemian grandeur: high ceilings and parquet floors furnished with eclectic, vintage finds. In the common areas, a row of wooden tennis racquets hangs above a staircase, an old-fashioned washing machine sits beside reception, suitcases and antique typewriters are casually stacked in corners. Two tiny lifts with concertina metal gates - not for the claustrophobic - rattle up to the higher floors. It all adds to the laid-back, slightly lost-in-time vibe.
Townhouse No 83, with the majority of the rooms, feels like a private palácio. No 81 also houses the Independente Hostel (their budget sister property), which can be confusing but keeps the overall atmosphere youthful, and ensures good tips for exploring, whether that's atmospheric Alfama, Belém’s World Heritage Site or Bairro Alto’s bars. Don’t expect polished; do expect a fun vibe, creative food and Instagrammable views.
Highs
- Excellent modern Portuguese food in the 2 restaurants: quirky Insolito and hipster Decadente
- The location, between Bairro Alto and Chiado, and steps from the metro, the Gloria Elevator and a miradouro (lookout)
- A relaxed, friendly atmosphere with staff who are passionate about their city and give you tips
- The characterful-filled suites: ours had grand Corinthian columns
- Mesmerising views from the rooftop bar, best admired with a sunset cocktail
Lows
- No twin rooms
- The lounge is shared with the hostel guests and can feel a bit student-y
- Vintage furniture can mean practicality is sacrificed for style
- No children under 16
Best time to go
It’s warm or hot throughout the year. Only December and January drop below the high teens, and the summer months swelter around 30 degrees. Autumn, after school holidays, or just after Easter are gorgeous times weather-wise, and avoid the peak-summer crowds.
Our top tips
When the city’s buzz gets too much, take the 30-minute train journey out to Cascais, a former fishing village turned civilised resort ringed by beaches. Wander the old town’s quiet narrow alleyways with their pastel-coloured houses and pretty window boxes. There’s also a startlingly modern gallery devoted to Paula Rego, Portugal’s leading figurative artist.
- Boutique Hotel
- 22 rooms
- Restaurants and bar open daily
- 16+ year olds only
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
Rooms
The 22 rooms (only 2 are suites in the conventional sense) differ in shape and furnishings but all display original features - parquet floors, high ceilings, shuttered windows - and share the same shabby-vintage style. You might find a marble-topped washstand as a dressing table, a coat-rail as a wardrobe, a TV propped on an old radiogram or a pile of battered books as a bedside table. Velvet-covered chairs and silk throws add softness while decorative objéts range from framed etchings to gaudy retro china.
Bathrooms are glamorous affairs with black-and-white tiled floors, deep old-fashioned basins beneath Baroque mirrors, big walk-in showers and, in the smaller rooms, cleverly mirrored side walls to give the illusion of space.
Features include:
- Hairdryer
- Safe box
- WiFi
Eating
Of the 2 restaurants, the rooftop Insólito is the more interesting. Once you’re over the rickety lift, the chandelier-draped bar and gob-smacking views will blow you away (you have, of course, booked ahead to reserve an outside table). The menu offers Portuguese dishes jazzed up with considerable style. For starters we had roasted celeriac with a hazelnut milk and parsley sauce, as well as the black tiger prawns on beurre noisette sourdough. For our main, we opted for the tuna tartare with smoked shiitake mushrooms in a miso and basil broth. All courses were inventive and incredibly delicious. Also recommended to us was local citrus-cured sea bream with a fennel and orange sauce. Lisboans love their puddings so we felt it would be insulting not to try the traditional Gelado de Arroz doce, a sweet rice pudding ice cream, served with spiced carrots.
Get up early for breakfast so you can linger over those views while working your way through a handsome spread of fruits, breads, meats and cheeses and homemade carrot cake.
The other restaurant, Decadente, has a hipster vibe and a great little beer garden. It dishes up straightforward Portuguese fare with a modern, zesty twist and is popular with locals (always a good sign): we sampled the confit hake, smoked lamb and chargrilled swiss chard with preserved lemon, and finished off with a refreshing cucumber and black pepper meringue. There's also a breakfast buffet served here.
Features include:
- Bar
- Restaurant
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Check reception's ‘What’s on?’ programme, which might include a free guided city tour, sociable bar crawl or a sketching class
- You're an easy walk from Chiado, a prime shopping area and a notorious hipster training ground. The hotel is also close to the famous Rossio train station, with its beautiful blue and white tiling
- On Tuesdays or Saturdays, head to the Feria de Lada craft and flea market (9am to 3pm) in the city’s oldest district, Alfama. Then wander the district’s atmospheric alleys and visit the ruined Castelo do São Jorge
- The city's best museum is the Gulbenkian, a true treasure hoard, with everything from Mesopotamian funerary vases to Persian carpets and a jaw-dropping collection of Lalique glass
- Convento do Carmo is a ruined convent, destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. Now open to the sky, the exposed arches and freestanding walls are a romantic archaeological site worth visiting, scattered with statues, tombstones, and pillars. The museum inside houses a fine collection of prehistoric remains, medieval tombs, early coins and rare pottery
- The other ‘big one’ is 16th-century Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, whose sprawling limestone cloisters and church are fantastically carved. It's a World Heritage Site
- Lisbon is big on ‘concept stores’ - a trendy term for desirable lifestyle/clothing/accessory things! There's a clutch around the corner in Praça do Principe Real; mostly Portuguese designers, too
- Spend a day zipping up and down the funiculars to check out the views from different miradouros (viewpoints)
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Art classes
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Museums / galleries
- Nightlife
- Private guided tours
- Shopping / markets
Kids
Older teenagers (16+) are welcome and will love The Independente's hip vibe and eclectic decor.
Best for:
Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
Deluxe Doubles and Suites can each fit 1 extra bed. If you're travelling with 2 children you'll need 2 rooms.
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The Independente Suites is on the western side of the city near the top of Rua São Pedro Alcântara, one of the principal roads that leads up from the river and separates downtown Chiado from the upper Barrio Alto district. It’s on bus and tram routes, near the Gloria Elevator.
By Air:
Fly into Lisbon airport (8km away). There’s an airport shuttle and metro service but the easiest transfer is by taxi; 20 to 25 minutes.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Lisbon Portela 8.0 km LIS
Other:
- Beach 20.0 km
- Shops 0.2 km
- Restaurant 0.2 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 6 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape