Once the village music school, this historic blue-and-white building has a pleasing mix of original features and contemporary elements. High-spec bathrooms and elegant 4-poster beds complement beamed ceilings, antique tiled floors and wooden shutters. Throw them open to be greeted by the neighbour’s black chickens and dazzling sunshine; then head off to explore one of the island’s many hiking trails or stunning black beaches. After lunch on the cobbled terrace, we spent blissful afternoons by the heated pool (the air is cooler up here at 700m altitude), or mooching around the tapas bars and pastel-coloured boutiques of El Paso and nearby Los Llanos. Bliss.
Highs
- Perfect for an adventurous family, or for 2-3 couples travelling together (each bedroom has an ensuite)
- The 4th bedroom is a spacious separate apartment at the back - offering a bit more privacy
- The new (in 2022) owners have exciting plans, and plenty of local knowledge which they are happy to share
- It's very affordable, especially given the high quality fittings and artful TLC that have been lavished on it
- We particularly loved the heated pool and the peaceful tropical gardens
Lows
- Lava flows from the 2021 eruption of Cumbre Vieja reach quite close to the house (about 10 mins' drive) - but are spectacular to visit
- You'll need a car to explore the island, and La Palma's steep, winding roads are not for the faint-hearted
- The restaurants and shops of El Paso are a short drive or 15-minute walk away - and there's not a huge choice (Los Llanos has more)
Best time to go
Our top tips
- House rental
- 3 bedrooms
- Self-catering; restaurants nearby
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Heated Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car essential
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
Rooms
The house is beautifully refurbished, with antique tile floors, wooden shutters and eaves, Balinese-style beds and underfloor heating: a serious cut above most Canary Island house rentals.
There are three bedrooms: two doubles and one twin. The beds are super comfy - we slept like babies. Each bedroom has its own ensuite bathroom, with walk-in rain showers and fluffy towels. The 2 rooms in the main house - which can interconnect - are large and bright, with private terraces and views out to the garden. The 3rd room is in a standalone building, with thick walls, a traditional beamed ceiling and a free-standing clawfoot bath. We loved this room because it's only a step away from the pool!
The sitting room is a comfortable place to escape from the heat in summer or cosy up by the wood burner in winter. There's also a dining room and a fully equipped kitchen. Step outside and the tropical garden is a delight, with loungers by the pool, dotted amongst exotic plants and fruit trees.
There's also a separate apartment at the back - where the owners used to live - with a queensize bedroom and its own sitting room. This can be added on by arrangement, to sleep 8-10 in total.
Features include:
- Hairdryer
- Safe box
- WiFi
Eating
The well-equipped kitchen comes with oven, electric hob, microwave, dishwasher, washing machine and two fridge freezers: it's a delight to cook here. The apartment also has its own small kitchen. There are several shops in the village (5-10 mins' walk away) including a fishmonger, two supermarkets and a lovely German-run organic food shop called El Campo: try their local dried bananas, almond butter and agave syrup. For anything more specialist, Los Llanos - the island's largest village - is a 10-minute drive away.
If you're feeling lazy, the village has several restaurants, including the well reviewed Tasca Catalina for tasty Mediterranean fare (plus great views from the terrace), and the humbler Tasca Barbanera for Canarian staples (think open montaditos sandwiches, white cheese with green mojo, spinach and parmesan bites). Nearest to the house is Italian-inspired El Greco, with fresh pasta and good pizzas. There's also an upscale Thai-Med fusion place called Franchipani, a couple of Mexican and Venezuelan eateries, and lots more options in Los Llanos.
Features include:
- Coffee / tea making
- Coffee maker
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Caldera de Taburiente National Park with its huge volcanic crater is on the doorstep, and offers exhilarating treks surrounded by jagged 2000m peaks or through the dramatic Las Angustias ravine
- Drive up to the Roque de los Muchachos observatory, at 2396m above sea level, for stunning island views and night-time star-gazing; or trek there along the knife-edge Ruta de la Cresteria
- Visit the towns of Santa Cruz (a 25-minute drive) or Los Llanos (15 minutes); both have colourful historic centres with cobbled lanes, 16th-century buildings and a vibrant café culture
- The sheltered beaches of Tazacorte, Puerto Naos and Charcol Verde are all within 15 minutes' drive, or ask the owners how to find the island's more remote stretches of sand
- Try paragliding, sea-kayaking or mountain biking with a local operator - Iona can advise
- Taste some of the island's delicacies such as miel de palma (palm honey) or the excellent locally produced wines
Kids
The house is a great place for a family with children - we think older kids rather than toddlers - who are interested in the great outdoors, and happy to brave the cool (and sometimes choppy) waters of the Atlantic.
Best for:
Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Kids Activities on site:
Heated outdoor pool
Distances:
- Beach: 13km
- Pharmacy: 1km (El Paso)
- Hospital: 20km (Santa Cruz)
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The Old Music School is situated in the village of El Paso in the middle of the Canary Island of La Palma (not to be confused with the cities of La Palma on Mallorca or Las Palmas on Gran Canaria!). It's a 25-minute drive from the island's airport near Santa Cruz.
By air:
La Palma (21km) is the only airport on the island, and is served by domestic flights - mostly from other Canary islands - and a few international charters.
Getting around
There are shops and restaurants within walking distance of the B&B, but you'll want to hire a car to explore the island. We found Oasis to be reliable and friendly.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- La Palma 21.5 km SPC
Other:
- Beach 13.0 km
- Shops 1.0 km
- Restaurant 1.0 km