Visiting Kelmscott is like stepping back in time. This tiny hamlet has little more than a handful of ancient cottages, a grade-I manor house (once home to William Morris), a pony or 2 keeping the paddocks tidy, and a local watering hole, The Plough Inn. Except The Plough is so much more than that. Not only is it a welcoming bar with a great selection of ales; it’s also an atmospheric restaurant where diners can unwind over everything from moules frites and Sunday roasts to peanut brittle chocolate cake. Even better, it’s not just villagers who enjoy this informal hideaway; thanks to 8 chic and cosy bedrooms, it’s a home-from-home for anyone who wants to stay.
We arrived on a sunny Friday evening to find the beer garden filled with end-of-week chatter, birds singing out from the trees and docile hounds ambling through the bar. It was the perfect antidote to the grey, bustling city centre from whence we’d came, and with each passing hour I felt my shoulders sink a little lower - surely the aim of every public house.
Highs
- One of the most enchanting and peaceful countryside settings we’ve come across; Kelmscott is full of character and very relaxing
- An easy romantic weekender; bring bikes or go walking along the Thames path, then enjoy a wonderful dinner in the restaurant
- We loved our evening G&Ts in the sunny garden, filled with a happy mix of locals, out of towners, kids and couples
- The bedrooms feel calm and cosy, with echoes of William Morris in their fabrics and colours
- Rates are very wallet-friendly, especially mid-week
Lows
- No food is served on Sunday night, Monday or Tuesday - we suggest avoiding these nights
- This is essentially a pub with rooms: don't expect hotel services, (check-in is done by bar staff, for example)
- No baby cots or extra beds for kids; bring your own travel cot or book additional rooms for little'uns
- Right out in the sticks; you'll need to drive here or take taxis
Best time to go
This place holds an appeal all year round. Spring and summer are idyllic as the garden blooms and the sun shines, but the pub and restaurant are charming enough to keep visitors happy during the colder months, too.
Our top tips
Note that food is served only from Wednesday-Sunday afternoon; and Kelmscott Manor is usually open only Thursday-Saturday from April-October (check opening times).
- Pub with rooms
- 8 rooms
- Restaurant + bar (closed Sun/Mon/Tue nights)
- All ages welcome
- Closed: Sun pm - Wed am (restaurant)
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
Rooms
The 8 compact, cosy bedrooms are tucked upstairs above the bar and restaurant. Like most 17th-century inns, ceilings are low and footprints are small, but these spaces have more charm in their little window seats than most houses have in their entire floorplans.
We stayed in Double Room 3 and deliberately rose early to start the day with a soak in its roll-top tub, taking in the pink springtime blossom outside the window. You also get garden views from the bedroom and quirky steps leading up to the bathroom.
The other Double Rooms are similarly endearing (though they have rainfall showers rather than tubs); earthy Farrow & Ball shades combine with bright lampshades, painterly cushions, creamy subway tiles and REN products. Rooms 7 and 8 are the quietest, but 8 does overlook the car park. Rooms 1 and 6 are the largest (but 6 gets some noise from the cellar fan and lacks garden views). Room 4 can be a twin, and there is also a comfortable Single Room; useful if you're bringing a child.
Features include:
- Hairdryer
- WiFi
Eating
If you wanted to, you could eat and drink from dawn 'til dusk here. After a lazy breakfast and lunch, nibble on bar snacks in the garden (Kelmscott pigs in blankets, perhaps), washed down with a pint or 2 from the bar (craft ales, local ciders), then take dinner in the atmospheric candlelit restaurant.
The menu is a considerate mix of pub classics and more creative dishes. During our Friday-night supper, we were delighted by the crispy plaice fillet with a warm samphire, avocado and crab salad, but it was the genius smoked-haddock fishcakes that had us wanting seconds. Topped with a runny poached egg, wilted spinach and a punchy mustard hollandaise, it was both comforting and indulgent all at once. Add fries on the side (obviously), and you'll leave utterly sated. If you do have room for dessert, the poached figs with mascarpone caught our eye.
In the morning, we ambled downstairs to a small but perfectly delicious breakfast of fresh juices, warm buttery croissants, tangy berry compote, granola and Greek yoghurt. Add a full English or full vegetarian, and you're set up for the day; or try the poached eggs with avo and feta (we did, and loved it).
If the restaurant is closed (typically Sunday-Monday-Tuesday evenings), other options include The Double Red Duke or The Five Alls at Filkins (both 10 mins' drive).
Features include:
- Bar
- Kids' meals
- Restaurant
Activities
- Kelmscott is a tiny-but-beautiful Cotswolds hamlet to explore, with lanes of honey-coloured cottage
- Its big draw is Grade I-listed Kelmscott Manor (open April-Oct, not daily), the former home of William Morris, with an iconic collection of artwork from by the father of the Arts & Crafts Movement
- Walking and cycling routes lead right from the door; in particular, there’s a lovely stretch of the Thames path just moments away
- The pretty market town of Lechlade-on-Thames has a handful of independent shops and welcoming waterfront inns, plus it's a great base for boat trips along the river (10-minute drive)
- Kids will love the animals at Cotswolds Wildlife Park, and running around in the manicured gardens (20-minute drive)
- The team can point you in the direction of local stables, golf courses and clay-pigeon-shooting centres
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Boat trips
- Clay pigeon shooting
- Cycling
- Fishing
- Golf
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Horse riding
- Shopping / markets
- Swimming
- Wildlife
Kids
This is a relaxed and welcoming pub with rooms, so the more the merrier, though you'll have to bring a travel cot or book additional rooms for older kids. The menu has lots of child-friendly favourites, there's a garden to run around in, and kids will love the Shetland ponies in a paddock along the lane.
Best for:
Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)
Family friendly accommodation:
Rooms 1 and 6 have space for a travel cot (bring your own). Older children could stay in the Single Room or Room 4, which can be made up with twin beds. Excluding Room 3, all rooms are shower only.
Baby equipment:
Highchairs on request
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Kids Activities nearby:
In summer, have a swim in the Thames: nearby Buscot Weir is popular with families. For kids with an interest in history or the outdoors, the White Horse (Uffington) and Waylands Smithy make good outings. For other ideas, check out Little Oxplorers.
Families Should Know:
Baby cots are not provided, rooms are too small for extra beds, and noise from the bar can travel (especially at closing time).
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The Plough Inn is set in the small hamlet of Kelmscott, near Burford in the Cotswolds, Gloucestershire.
By Air:
Birmingham (96km) and Bristol (106km) are the closest airports, both around an hour's drive away. London airports are approximately 1.5 hours' drive away. From the airport you could take a taxi, but we recommend having your own vehicle.
By Car:
This is a very rural area with limited public transport, so it's best to arrive by car - there’s free on-site parking. See our car hire recommendations.
By Train:
The nearest stations are Swindon or Oxford, both around a 25-minute taxi ride away.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to the UK and getting around
Airports:
- Birmingham 96.0 km BHX
- Bristol 106.0 km BRS
Other:
- Beach 50.0 km
- Shops 7.0 km
- Restaurant 7.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 8 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape