La Matarranya? Even Spaniards might be hard pressed to pinpoint this little-known corner of Aragón or tell you much about it. Think wild Provence: hilltop villages, almond groves, forested hills amidst limestone peaks, vineyards and olive groves. Add a dash of the remoter parts of Tuscany, with a food culture to match, and you’re getting close to the essence of this place.
La Torre del Visco’s estate embraces a 220-acre slice of one of the region’s most beautiful river valleys. Surrounded by meadows and orchards, rose, herb and vegetable gardens, the 16 understated rooms and suites combine original art, antiques, old stones and muted fabrics in a master class of interior pizzazz. Fit for a king? Sure, he’s stayed here, and when I slumped into a sofa next to a blazing fire it was to share conversation with four of Spain’s best-known actors. Remote, remarkable and revitalising, La Torre del Visco is about hospitality at its very best.
Highs
- Award-winning cuisine with a a daily changing menu and an open-kitchen philosophy: you can learn what’s behind the divine food.
- Beautifully remote and peaceful with fabulous hiking, biking and horse riding all around
- A lovely pool for lazy days
- I liked owner Jemma's warmth and enthusiasm, and a high staff-to-guest ratio ensures you’re brilliantly cared for
- Perfect for a special occasion
Lows
- Winters can be very cold, but crisp and sunny too, and you won’t find a more snug hideaway
- No TVs or minibars although there's an open cellar for guests to serve themselves at any time if restaurant service isn't available
- No other restaurants within walking distance, but you'll want to eat in every night anyway
- Only children over 6 are allowed, it feels more of an adult place
- You’ll need a car to get the best out of a stay here
Best time to go
If spring, autumn and summer are the best times of year for exploring what lies all around you, Visco is also a great place to stay in winter, when fires are lit in the public spaces and all bedrooms and suites feel warm and welcoming. Wildflowers - much of the surrounding land has never seen the use of pesticides - are mind-boggling from April through to June. Be sure to check out the olive harvest in the autumn. The hotel closes annually from early Jan - early Feb.
Our top tips
Book a return flight for a week to Barcelona, have a couple of nights of city culture (see our recommended places to stay), then spoil yourself with a 5-night stay at La Torre del Visco. You’ll return home revitalised but may find yourself wishing you could up sticks and move to La Matarranya...
- Boutique Hotel
- 16 rooms
- Restaurant and bar (open daily)
- Over 6s only
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
Rooms
Rooms and suites look out to the estate’s rose gardens, patios and meadows; a couple embrace views of the valley beyond. I was struck by their quietude, and not just in the literal sense. Original art, antiques and muted colours and fabrics impart individual character, yet the rooms aren’t in the least bit showy. Expect cut flowers and smooth Egyptian cotton sheets on excellent beds. There’s WiFi but no TVs or minibars: that’s not what La Torre del Visco’s about.
Most rooms have tubs, and you get a pile of white towels, along with bathrobes and slippers. Bathroom goodies are courtesy of Ada Shop – gel, shampoo and body lotion, herbal soap.
If you're here during winter, book a Suite for a lovely lounge with a fireplace. Just the spot for a day of reading and tea drinking. If you're here during the peak of summer, do note that many but not all of the rooms have air con – if this is very important to you, please request when booking.
Features include:
- Bathrobes
- Fan
- Hairdryer
- WiFi
Eating
Meals at Visco are imaginative and beautifully presented. Recipes combine Aragonese and Catalan influences with those of the Med, and many ingredients (including the vegetables, and the olive oil you get for booking through i-escape) come from the estate’s organic farm. Fish and shellfish are brought up from the Ebro Delta whilst meats are sourced close to home.
At dinner I opted for the menú de degustación (à la carte is available on request) of aperitifs, two starters, a main course and dessert. You can choose between fish, meat or vegetarian menus. Gazpacho was followed by a salad with home-smoked salmon, before turbot with saffron was served with sautéed veg. Next came lamb wrapped in leaves of Swiss chard, finally coffee and walnut sponge with goat’s cheese ice cream. The accompanying local wines were superb, and if you’re looking for a grand coupage you’ll find it in Visco’s 15th-century wine cellar.
Evening dining is about candles and silver service while breakfast is less formal either in the restaurant or on the terrace so you can soak up the views as you tuck into just-squeezed OJ and flaky pastries. There's an open cellar concept too: help yourself to drinks and snacks if restaurant service isn't available (open 24 hours).
Features include:
- Bar
- Restaurant
Activities
- Borrow a bike and take a picnic and explore the estate and surroundings
- The magnificent Val de Zafán Via Verde is 20km away
- Walk out from the house along one of 4 marked hiking trails, through forests, meadows and past wild-swimming spots
- Saddle up and explore the Matarranya on horseback: there’s a stables just down the road
- Discover medieval villages without the tourists: La Fresneda and Valderrobres are fascinating places to begin your forays, the latter with a stunning Gothic castle
- Dip into a good book. The library has thousands of titles (Jemma was formerly a publisher in Madrid), and the pool is made for lounging by
- Head out with binoculars and a bird guide: La Matarranya is an ornithological wonderland
- Play the piano or have a game of chess
- After dinner, weather permitting (check ahead), you could enjoy a stargazing workshop on the terrace with its telescopes, led by an astronomy expert (the hotel is Starlight Foundation certified). Best done with a cognac
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Art classes
- Birdwatching
- Cooking classes
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Horse riding
- Mountain biking
- Plantlife / flora
- Private guided tours
- Wine tasting
Kids
Children over 6 are welcome even if this isn’t a hotel which focuses on families. The library, extended breakfasts, art and foodie focus are all pretty grown-up, but there's lots of outside space.
Best for:
Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
Each of the room categories has a twin option, and several rooms are large enough to take extra beds (or have sofabeds), making them ideal for families.
Extra Beds Available, Family Rooms
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
La Torre del Visco is in a hidden corner of Aragón, in the province of Teruel. The regional capital of Valderrobres and the beautiful hilltop town of Morella are both close by. Barcelona and Valencia are both 2.5-3 hours' drive away.
By Air
The nearest airports are Castellon and Reus, which are 1-2 hours' drive away but have limited international flights. For a wider choice, fly into Valencia or Barcelona (2.5-3 hours' drive).
From the Airport
The hotel offers transfers but you'll probably want to hire a car, as public transport is very limited. If you're staying during the wetter time of year you might consider hiring a 4x4.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Reus 125.0 km REU
- Barcelona El Prat 216.0 km BCN
Other:
- Beach 80.0 km
- Shops 80.0 km
- Restaurant 80.0 km