La Torre del Visco

Fuentespalda, Aragon, Spain Book from Book from £207 per night

A supremely indulgent, tranquil and epicurean hideaway in an undiscovered corner of Aragón
La Matarranya? Even Spaniards might be hard pressed to pinpoint this little-known corner of Aragón or tell you much about it. Think wild Provence: hilltop villages, almond groves, forested hills amidst limestone peaks, vineyards and olive groves. Add a dash of the remoter parts of Tuscany, with a food culture to match, and you’re getting close to the essence of this place.

La Torre del Visco’s estate embraces a 220-acre slice of one of the region’s most beautiful river valleys. Surrounded by meadows and orchards, rose, herb and vegetable gardens, the 16 understated rooms and suites combine original art, antiques, old stones and muted fabrics in a master class of interior pizzazz. Fit for a king? Sure, he’s stayed here, and when I slumped into a sofa next to a blazing fire it was to share conversation with 4 of Spain’s best-known actors. Remote, remarkable and revitalising, La Torre del Visco is about hospitality at its very best.
Covid-19 update: some services and facilities may be changed as a result of Coronavirus measures.


  • Award-winning cuisine with a a daily changing menu and an open-kitchen philosophy: you can learn what’s behind the divine food
  • Beautifully remote and peaceful with fabulous hiking, biking and horse riding all around
  • A lovely pool for lazy days
  • I liked owner Jemma's warmth and enthusiasm, and a high staff-to-guest ratio ensures you’re brilliantly cared for
  • Perfect for a special occasion


  • Winters can be very cold, but crisp and sunny too, and you won’t find a more snug hideaway
  • No TVs or minibars, though Suites have DVD players and open fires
  • No other restaurants within walking distance, but you'll want to eat in every night anyway
  • Only children over 6 are allowed, it feels more of an adult place
  • You’ll need a car to get the best out of a stay here

Best time to go

If spring, autumn and summer are the best times of year for exploring what lies all around you, Visco is also a great place to stay in winter, when fires are lit in the public spaces and all bedrooms and suites feel warm and welcoming. Wildflowers - much of the surrounding land has never seen the use of pesticides - are mind-boggling from April through to June. Be sure to check out the olive harvest in the autumn. The hotel closes annually from early Jan - early Feb.

Our top tips

Book a return flight for a week to Barcelona, have a couple of nights of city culture (see our recommended places to stay), then spoil yourself with a 5-night stay at La Torre del Visco. You’ll return home revitalised but may find yourself wishing you could up sticks and move to La Matarranya...

Great for...

Great Outdoors
  • Boutique Hotel
  • 16 rooms
  • Restaurant and bar (open daily)
  • Over 8s only
  • Open all year
  • Outdoor Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Bicycles Available


Rooms and suites look out to the estate’s rose gardens, patios and meadows; a couple embrace views of the valley beyond. I was struck by their quietude, and not just in the literal sense. Original art, antiques and muted colours and fabrics impart individual character, yet the rooms aren’t in the least bit showy. Expect cut flowers and smooth Egyptian cotton sheets on excellent beds. There’s WiFi but no TVs or minibars: that’s not what La Torre del Visco’s about.

Most rooms have tubs, and you get a pile of white towels, along with bathrobes and slippers. Bathroom goodies are courtesy of Woods of Windsor - gel, shampoo and body lotion, herbal soap.

If you're here during winter, book a Suite for a lovely lounge with a fireplace. Just the spot for a day of reading and tea drinking.

If you're here during the peak of summer, do note that many but not all of the rooms have air con- if this is very important to you, please request when booking.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Bathrobes
  • Extra beds
  • Fan
  • Hairdryer
  • Terrace
  • Toiletries
  • WiFi


Meals at Visco are imaginative and beautifully presented. Recipes combine Aragonese and Catalan influences with those of the Med, and many ingredients (including the vegetables, and the olive oil you get for booking through i-escape) come from the estate’s organic farm. Fish and shellfish are brought up from the Ebro Delta whilst meats are sourced close to home.

At dinner I opted for the menú de degustación (à la carte is also on offer). Cherry gazpacho was followed by a salad with home-smoked salmon, before turbot cooked with saffron was served with sautéed veg. Next came lamb wrapped in leaves of Swiss chard, then coffee and walnut sponge with goat’s cheese ice cream. The accompanying local wines were superb, and if you’re looking for a grand coupage you’ll find it in Visco’s 15th-century wine cellar.

Evening dining is about candles and silver service, but you can choose to breakfast at one big table in the kitchen whilst watching the cooks at work. It’s convivial, fun and might easily morph into brunch... Or you can grab a table on the terrace and soak up the views as you tuck into just-squeezed OJ and flaky pastries.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Restaurant


  • Borrow a bike and take a picnic and explore the estate and surroundings
  • The magnificent Val de Zafán Via Verde is 20km away
  • Walk out from the house along one of 4 marked hiking trails, through forests, meadows and past wild-swimming spots
  • Saddle up and explore the Matarranya on horseback: there’s a stables just down the road
  • Discover medieval villages without the tourists: La Fresneda and Valderrobres are fascinating places to begin your forays, the latter with a stunning Gothic castle
  • Dip into a good book. The library has thousands of titles (Jemma was formerly a publisher in Madrid), and the pool is made for lounging by
  • Head out with binoculars and a bird guide: La Matarranya is an ornithological wonderland
  • Play the piano or have a game of chess
  • After dinner, enjoy a stargazing workshop on the terrace with its telescopes, led by an astronomy expert (the hotel is Starlight Foundation certified). Best done with a cognac

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Art classes
  • Birdwatching
  • Cooking classes
  • Creative writing
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Horse riding
  • Mountain biking
  • Photography classes
  • Plantlife / flora
  • Private guided tours
  • Star gazing
  • Wine tasting


Children over 8 are welcome even if this isn’t a hotel which focuses on families. The library, extended breakfasts, art and foodie focus are all pretty grown-up, but there's lots of outside space.

Best for:

Teens (over 12)

Family friendly accommodation:

Each of the room categories has a twin option, and several rooms are large enough to take extra beds (or have sofabeds), making them ideal for families.

Kid Friendly:


La Torre del Visco is in a hidden corner of Aragón, in the north of the province of Teruel. It's 3 hours from Barcelona and 3.5 from Valencia (although similar in mileage). The regional capital of Valderrobres and the beautiful hilltop town of Morella are both close by.

By Air:
Fly into Barcelona (216km), Valencia (218km), or Reus (125km, limited flights). Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.

From the Airport
The hotel offers transfers but you'll probably want to hire a car - see our car rental recommendations. If you're staying during the wetter time of year you might consider hiring a 4x4.

By Train:
The nearest station is Tortosa (65km). The hotel can collect you from here.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through

More on getting to Barcelona and Valencia


  • Reus 125.0 km REU
  • Barcelona El Prat 216.0 km BCN


  • Beach 80.0 km
  • Shops 80.0 km
  • Restaurant 80.0 km

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 2 independent reviews from i-escape guests


We stayed at La Torre del Visco in October 2019. It is an absolutely delightful holiday destination . The room was luxuriously spacious and clean, the staff ever obliging, the food to die for , but more importantly the philosophy of providing relaxation through simple pleasures like walking, mountain biking, reading, cooking. Jemma leads a a great team of experienced and friendly helpful staff. A highlight for us was coming into the kitchen everyday! And playing the piano, using the extensive library and mountain biking. We would highly recommend this hotel. Thank you Jemma and all the staff!


Great overall but the the WiFi signal is too weak in most areas.


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