A remote, romantic and rocky retreat in the stunning Matarrana mountains: think lovers' den, hiking hideaway, or secluded house party for 10-20”
Alasdair Grant - his family make the famous whisky - came here to film a documentary and left smitten. His rebirthing of a 17th-century masía - that's a stone-built farmhouse - left no stone unturned whilst his quest to marry comfort with authenticity was masterfully executed. Decoration weds South American and North African artefacts with family heirlooms from Scotland, whilst the Mediterranean cuisine is given an exotic twist by the Peruvian housekeepers, Luis and Jenny.
The building's cubist jumble is unforgettable when seen at night, and by day the vast views out to the forests and mountains take in no other building. Come for cosseted comfort, fine food and wines, outdoor pursuits, and for that delicious sense of being a voortrekker in a hauntingly beautiful swathe of eastern Spain.
- Available as a whole house rental, so suits couples wanting a romantic retreat, friends going hiking, extended families, or a big group (sleeps 10-20; self cater or be cooked for)
- Each bedroom is different, but all are equally lovely - we loved the beautiful four-poster bed in our Penarroya Room
- The warm welcome from Luis, who treats you like an old friend and takes a genuine interest in helping you make the most of the area
- The walking trails of the Matarrana are wild and wonderful yet remain blissfully undiscovered
- The great outdoors: hike through a stunning gorge, swim in a natural turquoise lake or under the El Salt waterfall, fish in mountain streams, kayak, horse ride and hunt for fossils
- Remote. No nightlife or buzzy villages on your doorstep and the nearest decent restaurants are a 30-minute drive - but that's half the point
- The lunches and dinners are delicious, but dining in could quickly add up; guests can use the fridge and kitchen to store and make snacks
- The track to the house is bumpy and windy, plus it can become rutted in winter so you'll need a 4x4; at any other time you'll be fine in a normal hire car
- A 7-night minimum stay for private rentals
- You may not get to meet Mas de la Serra's genial owner, Alasdair Grant, who travels the world producing documentaries
Best time to go
Our top tips
This part of eastern Spain saw a lot of action during the Spanish Civil War, when the Nationalists and Republicans slogged it out along the Teruel front. Read all about it in George Orwell's Homage to Catalonia, and get hold of a copy of Ken Loach's film Land and Freedom: much of the action was filmed just down the road.”
- Rural Retreat
- 9 bedrooms
- Breakfast (+ other meals on request)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Heated Pool
- Steam Room
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Beach Nearby
- Off-street Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Concierge Service
- Laundry Service
Alasdair wanted his guest rooms to be functional and comfortable, with no hint of anything corporate. So the building's base elements of beams, wooden floors, terracotta tiles and stone are pepped up by richly-coloured fabrics, oil paintings, maps and prints, as well as funky ethno-objets collected during travels in South America and Africa. Magazines, books and family photos along with treasured heirlooms lend heaps of intimacy: it all feels much more homely than hotel-y.
The room layouts follow the twists and turns of the original farmhouse, adapting to an organic floor plan that evolved over several centuries. All are named after a local town or village: there are 3 twins and 5 doubles. The flagship suites are Morella and Valderrobres. The former has an enormous 2m bed and a claw-footed tub hoisted up on a mezzanine whilst the latter has a cosy sitting room with a huge open hearth and a big bathroom with both tub and shower, plus an outdoor balcony.
Alternatively, Fuentespalda is a smaller mezzanine-style room, with a sofa above and bed below. The remaining rooms have showers rather than tubs: Peñarroya sports a four-poster bed, Horta grabs a stunning view to the southwest whilst La Fresneda and Beceite are of smaller dimensions though both still have vast beds. Pretty Rafales is tucked away in an annex: this room is fully adapted for disabled guests. Cretas Junior Suite is the newest addition, located downstairs in the main house, with a large bathroom.
All bedrooms are centrally heated with a fast WiFi connection: 3 have flatscreen TVs and DVD players. Bath and shower rooms feature eye-catching tadlakt - polished marble walls and sink surrounds - which were created by a master craftsman flown in from Fes. A variety of toiletries are provided (shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion), as are bathrobes and slippers to pad about in.
- Central heating
- Coffee / tea making
- Cots Available
- Extra beds
- Honesty bar
Eating arrangements are flexible depending on whether you take the house as a group or are staying as independent travellers. Breakfast is included; lunches and dinners are by request and groups can self-cater if they wish.
Guests begin their day with a buffet-style breakfast laid up in one of the masía's 2 dining rooms, or out on the terrace when the weather's right. Freshly squeezed OJ and freshly ground coffee are accompanied by oven-warm bread and a choice of homemade jam, marmalade and honey: there's also olive oil should you fancy a more local-style start to the day. Luis then takes orders for the cooked breakfast of your choice.
Housekeeper Jenny can spirit up light lunches and snacks (though this must be requested in advance), and groups have free run of the fully equipped kitchen when taking the whole house. You can stock up on groceries in Fuentespalda, 10 minutes' drive.
Dinners are a big part of the Mas de la Serra experience. The Spanish-Peruvian fusion menus are set, but dietary requirements are taken into consideration. To kick off, tapas is served on the terrace or in front of a big log fire: expect local ham, cheeses, olives and scrummy toasted almonds picked from the farm's trees. Our meal began almond and truffle soup followed by roast lamb served with a white bean purée. A wicked crema volteada (a Peruvian take on crème caramèl) followed for dessert. Luis can help you choose your wine from their own cellar: Alastair's inside knowledge of the trade ensures that all are superb.
For a change of scene, nearby La Torre del Visco serves excellent meals, plus there's a great choice of eateries 30 minutes' drive away. In Valdrrobres, duck into Fonda La Plaza for a cheap-and-cheerful Spanish feast. In La Fresneda, the Matarrana restaurant is Michelin recommended whilst El Convento also offers excellent regional cooking. There are closer restaurants, but they are not as good.
- Chef on request
- Children's meals
- Coffee / tea making
- Dinner by arrangement
- Lunch by arrangement
- Organic produce
- Vegetarian menu
- Laze by the infinity-edged pool (or in the hot tub) with your binos trained on the surrounding mountainsides: it won't be long before you spot ibex leaping between the rocks and eagles soaring above the limestone outcrops
- Walk out from the house to the top of a jagged limestone peak for a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding sierra, or pit yourself against the stunning traverse of Els Ports
- Hike and bike through a gorge, kayak in turquoise lakes, swim in the El Salt waterfall, take a dip in the hot springs at La Fontcalda, fish in the mighty Ebro or in mountain streams, ride through the wilderness on horseback; this place is pure outdoor heaven, and all activities can be arranged for you
- Head to a local bodega (we can vouch for the superb wines produced at the adjacent Venta d'Aubert) or discover Mas de la Serra's cellar bar - as well as fine wines, you can taste the Grant family's full range of fine Scotch whiskies
- You're surrounded by beautiful villages. Visit the castle in Valderrobres, see the cave paintings in Beceite and wander the narrow backstreets of beautiful Morella
- Hunker down in the cinema room, which features a state-of-the-art, high definition projector with wraparound sound, and a DVD library
- Unwind in the basement steam room
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Historical sites
- Horse riding
- Mountain biking
- Private guided tours
- Star gazing
- Well being
- Whisky Tasting
- Wine tasting
Mas de la Serra is a resolutely child-friendly zone and would be a great place for a family holiday providing your bambinos don't need everything laid on. Younger kids would love the twists and turns of the house, and its pool and lawns; older kids will love all the outdoor activities nearby - wild swimming, eagle spotting, mountain treks.
The hotel operates like a boutique hotel or you can book out the whole place, sleeping 10-20, for a special family or group event. Children are charged from age 2 and there are reduced prices for kids meals.
Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
Families with older children can either book twin rooms for the kids or book a split-level suite/room (Morella or Fuentespalda) where the kids can sleep on the sofabed in the living room (you can add an extra bed too if needed). Those with tots can add a cot or extra bed to any Standard Room, or book the single level suite Valderrobres, with a separate sitting room to use as a baby/toddler bedroom.
Babysitting by Jenny.
- High chair
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
You can self-cater if you want/need and there's a supermarket 10 minutes away. The nearest restaurants for eating out are 30 minutes away. The food here is great - discuss your children's needs with the chef and they'll create something spectacular.
Kids Activities on site:
- Heated outdoor pool (May-December)
- Home cinema and DVD library
- TV room
- Concierge service to help plan activities
Kids Activities nearby:
- Kayak or swim in the lake below the Mas
- Hire a bike in the village and roam off on mountain trails or down the old railway line
- Take a 4X4 trip into the mountains
- Go ibex, eagle or wild boar spotting
- Swim in El Salt waterfall
- Go riding or hiking in the mountains
Families Should Know:
There are open fires in the winter. The pool isn't safety fenced.
- Airport: 2 hours (Reus or Tarragona), 3 hours (Barcelona)
- Doctor: 10 minutes
Mas de la Serra is set in the region of Aragon, inland between Barcelona and Valencia - both of which are 2.5-3 hours' drive away.
The nearest airports are Castellon and Reus, which are 1-2 hours' drive away but have limited international flights. For a wider choice, fly into Valencia or Barcelona (2.5-3 hours).
From the Airport
You'll need to hire a car, as public transport is very limited, and many of the nearest restaurants are a 30-minute drive away. The road to Mas de La Serra is quite bumpy; if you're staying during winter we'd recommend hiring a 4x4.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
- Castellon (Costa Azahar) 70.0 km CDT
- Reus (Tarragona) 135.0 km REU
- Beach 93.0 km
- Shops 5.0 km
- Restaurant 5.0 km