Munduk Moding Plantation

near Gobleg, Pemuteran & North, Indonesia Book from

Reviewed by Julia Buckley
A spectacular eyrie: peaceful suites and villas on a remote coffee estate above the north coast, offering a taste of rural Bali
Ocean views and infinity pools - so far, so Bali. Yet Munduk Moding dances to the beat of its own drum: a laid-back eco-lodge in the midst of a working coffee plantation, with a gourmet restaurant and pools cantilevered over jungle-clad ravines. Up here in the hills above the peaceful north coast, they do things a little differently.

You may not see your room at first: the 3 suites and 9 villas (with 1-4 bedrooms) are scattered apart for privacy and buried deep in greenery. Temperatures are cooler at this remote hill station, and sometimes it’s swaddled in will-o'-the-wisp clouds; on a clear day, though, the views sweep down the plunging landscape to the Java Sea below. Those who venture to northern Bali are already an adventurous crowd and, with the local village heavily involved and the plantation largely self-sufficient (the marigold garlands, fruit and the coffee at breakfast are all grown on site), this is a taster of the island before mass tourism. Couples seeking seclusion, families after jungle thrills, singles on retreat - there’s quite literally room for all.


  • Beautiful landscapes: walk through the plantation, hike through monkey-filled forest, horse-ride to lakes
  • A superb restaurant - the tasting menus are outstanding
  • An incredible 18m infinity pool that melts into the sky; many villas have private pools and hot tubs, too
  • Genuine authenticity: it's run hand-in-hand with the nearby village and hosts dance performances by local kids
  • Massages and treatments to help you unwind; sessions with a traditional healer can be arranged, too


  • The sprawling, 12-acre site means getting to the pool and restaurant can involve relatively lengthy, hilly walks
  • There are free daytime shuttles for excursions, but the remote location means you’re far from the action
  • Eating in-house is really the only viable option
  • Quite a distance from the coast but you're here to be here and experience a different side of Bali
  • The weather’s cooler in the hills, and clouds and rain are always a possibility

Best time to go

July to September is peak season in Bali, and with cooler temperatures here than on the coast, the weather is ideal. October to April is rainy season - expect heavy showers and mist-swathed hills (though this lends a certain romance). Our preference would be for the shoulder season (we visited in May), when the island is less crowded and the weather is largely sunny. The coffee harvest takes place in July and August, and guest participation is encouraged.

Our top tips

Don’t miss the Sunday night traditional dance recitals. Cheesy as they may sound, the hotel is heavily involved in the local community (it provides dance and martial arts lessons for the school) and the performers are beaming kids proudly displaying their moves.

Great for...

Great Outdoors
  • = Recommended
  • = Best in region
  • = World favourite
  • Boutique Hotel
  • 3 suites, 9 villas with 1-4 bedrooms
  • Restaurant & bar (open daily)
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Heated Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Tennis Court
  • Bicycles Available
  • Games room


The 9 self-contained Villas and 3 Garden Suites are spread out across 4 acres of the plantation, so expect lots of privacy. The style is comfortable but simple: unembellished wooden furniture, marble bathrooms and mosquito nets over kingsize beds. The focus is firmly on the outside - bathrooms (all with tubs and showers) have skylights, and walls of glass are tickled by lush foliage. There is no air con but it is breezy up here so you don't need it.

Every villa and suite is different, but all have spectacular views over rice paddies, flower meadows and jungle to the distant sea. We loved our 1-Bedroom Pool Villa for its complete seclusion (and its pool and hot tub!), but we were also taken with the entry-level Garden Suites - they’re spacious and awash with sunlight, and their sea-facing terraces are completely private, despite them sitting in a block. For families and groups, there are larger villas with 2 or 4 ensuite bedrooms (some twins) plus glass-walled living areas.

Features include:

  • Bathrobes
  • Cd player
  • Coffee maker
  • Coffee tea making
  • Cots Available
  • Dvd player
  • Extra beds
  • Hairdryer
  • Ipod dock
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Mosquito net
  • Phone
  • Safe box
  • Satellite tv
  • Terrace
  • Terrace
  • WiFi
  • Wifi internet


The restaurant’s name, MiMPi, means 'dream' in Balinese and, while the simple décor (white stone walls and wooden furniture) verges on the plain, the food lives up to the name - and then some. Most produce is grown on the plantation, and you can taste it - even the lettuce in our beetroot salad was an education in just how juicy a fresh leaf can be.

Lunch, taken with the glass doors open onto the infinity pool and Java Sea, is a healthy feast of fruit juices and local favourites such as nasi goring. Make sure you save space for the 6-course tasting menus at dinner, though: one Balinese, and one Western fusion (which change regularly). The Balinese spread, in particular, is superlative - our bebek gurih (a local take on Peking duck) and fish satay on lemongrass skewers were perfectly flavoured and beautifully presented.

For breakfast, you’ve a choice of Balinese, Indonesian or Western menus. Drinks are available poolside and from the bar or lobby throughout the day - and, of course, the home-roasted coffee is on tap.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Children meals
  • Coffee maker
  • Coffee tea making
  • Complimentary afternoon tea
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Organic produce
  • Restaurant


  • Explore the plantation - either solo by foot or bicycle, or on one of the daily tours. Routes vary from an easy loop around coffee, clove, chocolate and banana plants - the air scented by hortensia flowers and orchids - to more challenging hikes across the hills to a monkey-filled rainforest a mile away
  • Book a session with a traditional healer - Pak Ketut Suwitra, the local balian, is known throughout the island for his healing touch. He’ll treat you in your villa or the treatment room; massages and scrubs are available, too
  • Take the free daytime shuttle to Munduk, with its waterfall deep within the rainforest, or Bedugul, a serene lake with botanical gardens
  • Work off those tasting menus with a day trek to Buyan and Tamblingan Lake, formed from a pre-historic caldera. You'll journey through macaque-filled rainforests and canoe across to Gubug temple
  • You can also reach Tamblingan on the resort’s horses; guided rides are easily arranged
  • As are dolphin-watching tours down on the coast
  • Back at the hotel, hit the tennis court or just sit back with a book and soak up the views
  • The hotel offers a complimentary activities programme, giving an insight to the culture and nature of Bali (coffee processing, kite making etc)

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Birdwatching
  • Cycling
  • Dolphin watching
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Horse-riding
  • Kayaking
  • Plantlife / flora
  • Private guided tours
  • Swimming
  • Tennis
  • Traditional cultures
  • Trekking
  • Well being
  • Wildlife


Families are welcome: the accommodation has plenty of space, and child-friendly activities (kite making, movies, Balinese dress-up) are laid on daily. Just bear in mind that this is a remote, rural resort, and older kids might get bored. The atmosphere is quiet and laid-back, and during our stay the majority of guests were couples or groups of adults.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

All accommodation can fit a baby cot or rollaway bed. Families are encouraged to book the 2-Bedroom Coffee Villa (sleeping 4-6) or 2-Bedroom Pool Villa (sleeping 4), though the latter’s infinity pool means young ones need supervision. The 4-Bedroom Pool Villa can sleep 8-10 in 4 bedrooms.


Available on request

Baby equipment:

  • Baby cots
  • High chairs

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Children's meals:

The restaurant has a kids’ menu

Kids Activities on site:

  • Plantation walks
  • Games room and movies
  • Kite making
  • Dance performances on Sunday evenings
  • Tennis

Kids Activities nearby:

  • Horse riding through the jungle
  • Visits to waterfalls and lakes

Families Should Know:

The site is hilly with plunging drops, so keep an eye on roving little ones


  • Airport: 2.5 hours
Kid Friendly:

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