Villa Kynthia

Panormos, Crete, Greece Book from Book from £98 per night

An intimate guesthouse-hotel, with antique-filled bedrooms and blissful pool, in an unspoilt village with beaches
Panormos is a small, pretty-much undiscovered village on the north coast of Crete, near the historic town of Rethymnon. It’s the kind of place you could easily drive past, were it not for the fact that it hides one of the island’s most charming guesthouses. This 1890s residence was built for a merchant of aromatic kitra (grapefruit-sized lemons), which were exported, along with carobs and olive oil, from its sheltered port.

Twenty years ago it was lovingly restored by wine producer Antonis and his sister Korina in memory of childhood holidays. Step through the ornate gateway and you find yourself in an enchanting courtyard, shaded by a venerable pine tree and scented by gardenia. Swallows skim the pool and wood pigeons coo. Behind blue shutters, 5 elegant bedrooms reveal polished parquet floors, beamed eaves, Persian rugs and antique iron four-posters; one has a balcony, another a terrace. On your doorstep are 18 tavernas and 2 sandy beaches; the bus for Rethymnon (22km) is a short stroll away. One of our favourite beachside places in Crete for families and couples alike.

Highs

  • The secluded courtyard, with its delicious greenery, prettily furnished pool and romantic candlelight
  • Charmingly decorated bedrooms, authentically Greek in style
  • Intimate atmosphere, with a maximum of 12 guests
  • The breakfasts are superb, with homemade cheese pies and fresh squeezed juices
  • The village of Panormos: a perfect size, with plenty of tavernas and 2 sand beaches
  • Easy access to all of central and western Crete - the bus stop is a 5-minute walk away, so you don't have to have a car

Lows

  • There’s a minimum stay of 4 nights (though that should be no hardship)
  • The smallest room, Nefeli, is a little poky by comparison with the others, with a private but separate bathroom down the stairs
  • The double beds are quite narrow
  • Outside midsummer the owners spend most of their time in Heraklion, but the housekeepers from the village know the ropes well enough
  • The bar and snack service are only open sporadically

Best time to go

The house is open April to October. Greek Easter is a massive religious and social event, while midsummer sees more in the way of culture, music etc.

Our top tips

If you're looking for one base from which to explore all of western and central Crete, this is your best bet. Either hire a car - Rethymno is 15 mins away, Heraklion 45 mins and Chania 75 mins; or go by bus - there's a stop 2 mins' walk away, and buses come buy at least hourly. Given the wealth of things to see, and the prettiness of Panormos itself, you could easily spend 2 weeks here. And that would give you time to check out almost all of the village's restaurants!

Great for...

Beach
Family
Honeymoon
  • Boutique Guesthouse
  • 5
  • Breakfast and snacks served; restaurants nearby
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Outdoor Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • WiFi
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Beach Nearby
  • Off-street Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Daily Maid Service
  • Towels & Bedlinen
Room:

Rooms

The interiors feel more like a Venetian palazzo than a Greek island villa. The 3 first-floor rooms are the most lavish, with shiny wooden floors, beamed or panelled ceilings, wrought-iron four-poster beds, faded Persian rugs and beautiful antique dressers or washstands.

Pride of place goes to Artemis, a truly charming room with 4 shuttered windows overlooking the pool and courtyard. A folding Chinese screen separates the white canopied bed from the sitting area, whose red-brocade sofas open out into 2 comfy single beds. The same arrangement applies in Odyssey, which has a modern ceiling frieze depicting Circe, the Sirens et al, in place of more characterful rafters. There’s a long narrow balcony overlooking the street and hills - searing hot until shade hits at noon - and enough floorspace inside to practise your syrtaki. The bathroom is a good size.

Pandora and Nefeli are smaller – as befits mere mortals alongside a pair of gods – but Pandora is still pretty roomy, and could easily hold a couple and a young child. Split-level Nefeli sits sweetly under the rafters, with its shower room down the windy stair and just outside the door. Lovely Pandora has the further gift of a large private terrace with a view to the hills – a perfect place for a quiet aperitif. These rooms would combine well as private family quarters.

The fifth room is Rea, a delightful apartment sleeping 2-4 in a white light-filled bedroom (its window overlooking a tiny street) and a low mezzanine twin/sitting area; ideal for a couple or a family. It comes with a kitchenette, dining table and direct access to the courtyard garden through a wide arched door.

All rooms have heating, air-con, TV and mini fridge; most have ceiling fans. Do bear in mind that the old iron bedframes are not as wide as modern hotel doubles. Three of the bathrooms have baths as well as showers. Mattresses are super-comfy, linen is snowy white.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Central heating
  • Cots Available
  • Extra beds
  • Hairdryer
  • Internet access
  • Iron
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Phone
  • Radio
  • Safe box
  • Tv
  • WiFi

Eating

A buffet breakfast is laid out on the downstairs table, and you can help yourself to cakes, cereals, biscuits, fresh orange juice, yoghurt, honey, cheese, ham and homemade jams, and sit outside in the dappled shade of the pine tree. As if that's not enough, Korina will sometimes whip up a deliciously crumbly tiropita (cheese pie), or proffer some of her latest glyka tou koutaliou (preserved fruit). It’s a great start to the day, and slips quite easily into the middle of the day with a few refills from the coffee machine.

For lunch and dinner, there are many tavernas - 18 at the last count - their tables spilling onto pedestrian streets and glittering quayside. One of them, the Steki tou Sifaki, can deliver dishes – cheese pies, baked aubergines, oil-drenched rusks with tomato and crumbled feta – to the hotel’s courtyard tables. Our favourite was Maki's, whose chef (Maki's wife) turns out a small number of wonderful Cretan dishes each night; no need for a menu. Another gem is George and Georgia, just around the corner: their baked lamb was as soft and juicy as can be. Family-run Geronymos also comes recommended, for its deep-fried courgettes and delectable lamb chops, and The Anchor, for its calamares and sea views.

Wine (their own organic red included) and ouzo may be served in the courtyard, or you can join locals for a raki at streetside tables in the square. Guests in the Rea apartment can prepare simple meals in the diminutive kitchenette; there are a handful of mini marts in the village, open all hours.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Breakfast
  • Children meals
  • Minibar/fridge
  • Restaurants nearby
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

Panormos has a lot going on for a village of its size. You’ll find a small harbour, a couple of Byzantine chapels, a post office, a sprinkling of mini marts and tourist shops and an old carob-bean mill that has been restored by Kynthia's owners as a cultural centre. In summer, occasional music recitals and chamber concerts – from classical to Cretan, Spanish to Argentine – are arranged by the Epimenides Cultural Society, as well as street theatre performances. Best of all, the sand beach is a 3-minute stroll away, with loungers and parasols to hire, and a slightly larger beach a little further, with a good beach cafe. The sea is shallow and crystal clear.

This is also a great base for exploring central and western Crete, with the main north-coast road just a few km away, easily reachable by bus.

The university town of Rethymnon is perhaps the prettiest of Crete’s Venetian cities, with a massive walled fortezza full of crumbling storehouses and later Ottoman mosques. Its characterful tight-packed streets, lined with Turkish balconied houses and tourist paraphernalia, lead to a historic inner harbour, now disfigured by garish eateries. However, there are some delightful little restaurants and bars in the Old Quarter.

Chania, its main rival for Italianate prettiness, is an hour to the west, and well worth a day trip for its sea walls, archaeological museum, covered food market and romantic restaurants.

Heraklion, Crete’s vibrant capital and home of its finest archaeological collection, and the Minoan palace at Knossos, imaginatively excavated by Sir Arthur Evans, are both 45 mins drive east; don’t miss them.

The White Mountains are Crete’s most dramatic range (over 8000 feet high), popular with hikers, birdwatchers and botanists; join them on a trek through the 14km-long Samaria gorge, or escape the crowds in the quieter ravines of Ayia Irini or Imbros (you’ll need to start early for any of these).

Arkadi monastery, where a group of monastic rebels famously blew themselves up in the face of a Turkish siege, lies just inland, under a cliff in the foothills of Mt. Psiloritis (or Ida). You can hike here using a sketch map provided by the owner. Further afield on the south coast, you can explore Preveli monastery and go for a swim at its idyllic, palm-shaded beach.

Other beaches worth driving to are burgeoning Plakias, gorgeous Damnoni, nudist Amoudi and hippy Matala, all on the south coast; and the endless open sands east of Georgioupolis on the north (a windsurfer’s dream).

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Birdwatching
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Museums / galleries
  • Plantlife / flora
  • Scuba diving
  • Shopping / markets
  • Snorkelling
  • Swimming
  • Windsurfing
  • Wine tasting

Kids

Children of all ages are welcome, and will be very well looked after by the extremely accommodating owners and staff. The walled garden and pool make a safe, shady play area (you will, of course, need to supervise your kids poolside), and there are beaches a short walk away.

The village is partly traffic free. With only 5 rooms, the mood will depend largely on whether the other guests are families or couples, so it's worth asking at the time of enquiry. When our editor visited in May 2011, the other 2 occupied rooms were both families, who rapidly befriended each other.

Best for:

Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)

Family friendly accommodation:

Book either a double with 2 single sofa beds (Odyssey, Artemis and Rea) or connecting rooms. Rea has a kitchenette and Pandora also has a sofabed.

Babysitting:

Babysitting can be arranged, given advance notice.

Baby equipment:

  • Cots

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Children's meals:

Only breakfast is served; there are plenty of tavernas and takeaways nearby serving child-pleasing food. Rea has a basic kitchenette.

Kids Activities on site:

  • Walled garden to play in
  • Pool
  • Donkeys and other farm animals nearby

Kids Activities nearby:

  • Horse-drawn carriage rides through the village
  • Safe sandy beaches nearby, with parasols (but no lifeguards)
  • Plenty of lovely villages to visit if you need a change of scene from the beach

Families Should Know:

The pool isn't fenced and there are some steps and terraces that toddlers could tumble around. Weever fish are fairly common in the sea here - jelly shoes are a good idea for little kids.

Distances:

  • Airport: 45 minutes
  • Hospital: 1 hour
Kid Friendly:

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 36 independent reviews from i-escape guests

8/10
Room
8/10
Food
9/10
Service
9/10
Value
9/10
Overall

Lovely villa in the heart of a charming little seaside village east of Rethymnon. It has a pretty pool area surrounded by flowers and trees and swooping swallows.
We had the smallest room which was a little pokey and tired but that was the only downside and the other rooms looked amazing.
Corina, the owner, came to meet us on arrival, shared some wine which she had made and gave us a great brief of the area restaurants and history of the place. Maria who runs the show on a daily basis is super friendly and very efficient, makes a mean breakfast and has great local knowledge,
The beaches in Panormos are small, sandy , with clear blue water and are by no means crowded. Just down the road is Spilies beach which is probably the best in the region and has been kept a bit of a secret. It's seven minutes by car so even if you're aim is to be lazy, Spilies is manageable.
Eat at Makis, run by an eccentric retired teacher who takes you to his kitchen and shows you the food options by opening the fridge and oven. No menu and no prices, but always good and cheap. Try Geronymos just round the corner too. The food there is served and cooked by a family team and was high quality especially the pork in honey.

9/10,

Villa Kynthia is a wonderful place to stay. Maria is the perfect host, providing great breakfasts, advice on what to do and see and was just wonderful in every way. The rooms are all fantastic and the surroundings in Panormos are perfect. Corinna and Adonis (the owners) could not have been more welcoming and it felt like staying with friends more than a hotel.

10/10,

Very helpful and friendly staff.
Superb location close to beach.

8/10,

Villa Kynthia is a lovely place to stay with a relaxed and easy atmosphere that is greatly enhanced by Maria's excellent breakfasts and warm friendly approach.
We particularly enjoyed exploring the Eleutherma site and visiting the new museum.

9/10,

Loved the villa and the feel of the accommodation. The best restaurants locally were not open in April - so travel needed. Not a town to stay in long term, but can be used as a base to visit a lot of sites relatively nearby.

8/10,

We just loved this boutique hotel and its location in the beautiful village of Panormos. Fabulous beaches, restaurants and generally lovely people! It has good bus links enabling easy access around Crete, even as a family of 7! A big thanks to Corina and Maria who were both very helpful and informative.

10/10,

Both owners and Maria who was always present were unfailingly polite, friendly, warm, welcoming and efficient. Nothing was too much trouble. Our room, the house and the garden, with its pool and many small seating areas, were comfortable and charming with many original touches. We felt very much at home but also very much in Crete. We were there for five days in a sunny October and found the village very friendly, relaxed and pleasant. It was very much a community, with cats dogs and happy local children everywhere. Our favourite little cove, complete with taverna, had a lovely safe beach ands we enjoyed warm sea for swimming. It was easy to get to from Heraklion airport where the Villa owner arranged for a taxi which awaited us on arrival. We hope to return

9/10,

The villa is lovely, with loads of style, and very central. Manager Maria is an absolute gem; nothing is too much trouble for her. We were staying in Nefeli, as it was the only room available. It is much smaller than the other rooms. It is very quirky, with a small dressing room downstairs and an attic bedroom upstairs, but having to go down steep stairs and across a shared corridor to the bathroom, if you need to get up in the night, is challenging in the dark! The bed, with its new mattress, is very comfortable. The other guests were friendly and chatty, exchanging tips on where to visit at breakfast or round the pool.
Panormos is a lovely, unspoilt little village, with cobbled streets and old architecture. The Captain's Table, the Anchor and Barba Andreas restaurants, down on the sea front are lovely at sunset, with excellent food and service, but Maki's, where you eat in the cobbled street, round the corner from Villa Kynthia, from a more limited, daily special menu, is also excellent and very popular.
A visit to local pottery village Margarites is a must, and the superb new (free) museum at ancient Elevtherna nearby well worthwhile.
We also really enjoyed Rethimno and Chania but Heraklion was a disappointment, although the archaeological museum was excellent.
We preferred the beaches on the South coast to those nearby. The views in the interior of the island are stunning and the roads fast and easy. It helps hugely if you hire a car but many guests used the local buses.
Arriving there at dead of night was difficult. Our satnav correctly located the villa but, even when we were standing directly in front of it, we could not see it, as the alley and the villa sign were unlit at 2am.

9/10,

I loved Villa Kynthia. The hotel is quite unique, eclectic and quite beautiful. The courtyard is a wonderful place to start the day enjoying their fabulous breakfasts. There is lovely secluded pool too. Karina and Antonis the owners are friendly and helpful as is the lovely Maria who runs the show for them. The two beaches, many restaurants, cafes, bars and shops are on your doorstep. For personal reasons I booked a holiday on my own at short notice and stayed in Nefeli which was perfect for me. I could choose to be as sociable or as private as I wished and was made to feel very welcome. The other residents included families with young children, a couple and members of an international dance group! Antonis is a good source of local information and I followed his recommendations regarding restaurants.

10/10,

Superb small hotel. The pool was perfect for our four had six year olds. The village is small and everything is within a ten minute walk. Very relaxing.

8/10,

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Rates for Villa Kynthia