By Kate Parsons, Head of Reservations
Kate, our in-house Portugal expert, recently enjoyed a blissful short break in the Algarve with her husband. No kids, no hassle, just three gorgeous i-escape hotels and some stunning beaches to boot. Here’s the inside scoop.
Ah, to travel again is a joy, a privilege and a total pleasure. After having our freedom curtailed for so long, our first trip abroad in three years was all the sweeter for it. Fortunately, despite my fears, it was all rather easy (the secret: no kids!) and once we picked up the car at Faro airport, we were in our first hotel just an hour after disembarking the plane.
Stop 1: Convento, Olhao
The first stop on our brief itinerary was Convento in Olhao, a firm i-escape favourite. On first impressions, Olhao is a little rough around the edges. There are lots of construction sites on the approach, but do not be deterred; dig a little deeper and wander into the old town and you’ll be totally charmed. The joy is in uncovering this secret. It’s a working fishing town and the seafront market is buzzing on a Saturday morning. The Moorish influence is clear from the tiny narrow streets, labyrinthine alleyways, and in buildings like Convento, which is essentially a riad built around a peaceful central courtyard. We both loved the hotel and its total air of serenity and tranquillity. The owner Guillaume is such a lovely, softly spoken, calm man, and his wife Antje is also delightful.
Convento is a perfect pit stop for a few days in the Algarve. Its proximity to the airport means you can easily be car-free here. However, if you want a vehicle for exploring the area, there is some free parking nearby (although probably tricky to find space in peak season). The three islands in the Ria Formosa are easily reached via the local ferry, which is very cheap (approx. 4 euro return), or you can go via water taxi if you want to avoid the crowds. The beaches on the islands are stunning. STUNNING! We took the ferry and visited Culatra for a few hours, where we had a perfect garlicky seafood lunch and marvelled at the glorious, shell-strewn empty beaches.
Breakfast at the hotel was a treat, with homemade cake, beautiful fresh fruit and yoghurt, and some wonderful local cheeses and charcuterie. The rooftop is a delight: the plunge pool is small but perfect on a hot day, the terraces for sitting in the sun are just amazing – with views of the islands (with swifts and storks flying past) – and the honesty bar is great value. One thing to watch out for is the spiral staircase, which is very steep and narrow, so ask for a room on the ground floor if this might be an issue for you.
Stop 2: Tavira Boutique Apartments, Tavira
Our second stop was Tavira, an old-school Algarve town near Faro that has managed to retain much of its authentic Portuguese charm and has (so far) avoided attracting hordes of tourists. We stayed in the Tavira Boutique Apartments where we met owner Miguel, along with his unbelievably sweet family, whose portfolio also includes Boutique Apartments Porto. The 2 apartments are situated in a 16th Century convent that has been painstakingly restored; a beautiful sand-coloured building that wraps around a huge courtyard, with a spectacularly large pool at its heart.
The elegance of the historic building was certainly reflected in the apartment itself. At first glance it is so minimalist you’d assume it isn’t well-equipped, but it has everything you could need and more – just skilfully concealed to keep the space feeling clean and sophisticated (even the air con unit was hiding inside of a cupboard!). We enjoyed evenings on our private slice of terrace, overlooking the salt pans and the Ria Formosa, with a pretty pergola overhead for some shade.
The location couldn’t be better; it was super easy to find and we were only a 5-minute walk from the best shops and restaurants in Tavira. The only downside (to some) could be that the beach is a 5-minute ferry ride away, but this is the case for most towns in the area, and the coastline is a highlight of the area so well worth the quick trip! Due to the building’s national heritage status, acquiring and converting these apartments was a serious passion project for Miguel, and after our stay we can say with confidence that it was worth the effort.
Stop 3: Conversas de Alpendre, Cacela Velha
Our final hotel was the incredible Conversas de Alpendre. The beautiful décor incorporates rattan, wicker, straw and ethnic hangings. There are swing seats, free cake, daybeds scattered around the spacious grounds, and bikes to borrow. This has been a total i-escape favourite since we added it in 2018, and the owners have also just opened a sister property in Tavira (Colegio Charm House), which is equally boho-chic.
Marta created Conversas and runs it with her family; her parents are very much involved (her dad is lovely!), and she has a young son who loves to make friends with visiting children. They have a team of 20 impeccably trained staff who seem to love their job and the hotel, and it’s a great vibe there. Again, it is a luxurious version of informal (all the rooms are named after why they moved to the Algarve – No Worries, No Pressure, No Suit, No Boss!), but it’s very hospitable, and everyone is friendly and really keen to help. It grows and grows on you. There’s a stunning Treehouse with panoramic views, while the newly opened Warehouse can take a family of 5 and has its own plunge pool – perfect for a family summer holiday.
The nearby beaches are easily accessible by bike or car, and again are totally stunning. We spent a heavenly day on Fabrica island beach after paying a local fisherman to give us a lift in his boat, and Marta’s team equipped us with a beach umbrella and a delicious picnic. You can walk for miles across the shell-strewn sand and watch fiddler crabs basking in the sunshine. Absolute heaven.
Now to plan our return….
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