By Lucy Richardson, Editor
The winning combination of long sandy coastlines, wild natural parks and gorgeous boutique hideaways makes Portugal a top summer beach destination. But the best beach retreats aren’t always found on the shoreline. Here’s our secret: stay a couple of miles inland and you’ll find that crowds quickly disperse, the sea views are sensational, and tranquillity pervades.
These are some of our favourite coastal retreats in Portugal, spanning the eastern Algarve to the North Lisbon Coast. All have blissful beaches nearby.
The eastern Algarve
Convento, Olhão
Best for: A cheap and chic beach getaway
Closest beach: Armona or Culatra (7km)
Summer prices: From £108 per room per night
This excellent-value townhouse in Olhão (20 mins from Faro) has nine rooms set around an attractive courtyard with chequered tiles and climbing plants – very Moroccan riad. There’s a rooftop terrace with a little heated pool, and you’re a taxi-boat ride from some of our favourite Portuguese beaches, in the Ria Formosa Natural Park.
Conversas de Alpendre, near Tavira
Best for: Holing up with your other half
Closest beach: Fábrica (2km)
Summer prices: from £158 per room per night
Just 2 kilometres from a gorgeous sandy beach, this ultra-stylish small hotel exudes tranquillity. The 12 rooms are furnished by local artisans and the restaurant serves up regional specialities. Outside, hammocks are strung up in cork and carob trees and there’s a very inviting saltwater swimming pool. But keep wandering and you’ll discover the pièce de résistance: a romantic Tree House for two with panoramic sea views.
Praia Verde, Altura
Best for: Kid-friendly activities
Closest beach: Praia Verde (850m)
Summer prices: from £140 per room per night
Though large in size (65 rooms), this boutique hotel feels blissfully secluded, set among protected pine forest at the back of a long, sandy beach. There’s lots to entertain all ages: cycling, dolphin watching, castles, picnics on the beach, lazing by the pool, fabulous food – plus a free kids’ club in summer. The beach is an easy 15-minute stroll away, with a scattering of seasonal bars and restaurants lining the shore. Note: the hotel is extremely popular in July and August, so you’ll need to book early.
Pensao Agricola, near Tavira
Best for: Rural romance
Closest beach: Cabanas (5km)
Summer prices: from £171 per room per night
You’d never know you were slap bang in the middle of the eastern Algarve at this converted farmhouse. Inside, it’s all stark whitewashed walls, upcycled furniture and vintage finds. Outside, long views stretch out over orchards of orange, fig and almond. Five-course dinners are offered on request, and they’re spectacular – many of the dishes are based on old family recipes. But best of all, you’re a stone’s throw from the Rio Formosa delta and its deserted beaches.
Vila Monte Farm House, Moncarapacho
Best for: An indulgent ‘fly and flop’ retreat
Closest beach: Fuseta (10km)
Summer prices: from £225 per room per night
Just 30 minutes from Faro Airport, this perfectly placed farmhouse has style in spades. Set inland, its rural location is a far cry from the Algarve’s touristic centre, yet the Ria Formosa’s beaches are just a short shuttle ride away. But with acres of lawned gardens, two heated pools, a tennis court, a spa, regular workshops and farm-to-plate food, you might find it hard to peel yourself away.
The western Algarve
Muxima, Aljezur
Best for: Nature-loving families
Closest beach: Amoreira (9km)
Summer prices: from £100 per room per night
Inspired by the African bush, this eco-conscious retreat is wrapped within 28 hectares of cork and eucalyptus forest. It’s an off-grid style getaway with no TVs and no WiFi in the bedrooms. Instead, spend your time splashing about in the natural swimming pool, birdwatching in the Southwest Algarvian Natural Park or exploring some of the country’s best beaches – there are three within a 10-minute drive.
Herdade Quinta Natura, near Aljezur
Best for: Couples seeking a homely atmosphere
Closest beach: Monte Clerigo (10km)
Summer prices: from £88 per room per night
With just four rooms, this sweet little guesthouse is charming and friendly. Run by owner Marta and her family, it feels wonderfully homely. Cook in the communal kitchen, have a barbecue or laze about by the pool among peaceful gardens. Nearby, there are lots of hiking trails and three beautiful beaches within a 10/15-minute drive.
North Lisbon Coast
Outpost – Casa das Arribas, near Sintra
Best for: A sociable family getaway
Closest beach: Aguda (1km)
Summer prices: from £175 per apartment per night
Clinging to the cliffs above half-empty surfing beaches, these contemporary apartments (for 2-4) have glorious ocean views – especially at sunset. All have smart, minimalist styling with handmade furniture and well-equipped kitchens for self-catering – or you can have meals delivered to your door in baskets if you wish. Splash about in the swimming pool, play tennis or basketball on the court, or wander down to the local surf beach. UNESCO-listed Sintra is an easy 20-minute drive away.
Areias do Seixo, Praceta do Atlântico
Best for: An unforgettable eco-chic getaway
Closest beach: Seixo and Mexilhoeira (1km)
Summer prices: from £292 per room per night
This remarkable hotel ranks as one of the most stylish we’ve ever seen – quite a feat! The décor is truly sensational, with ultra-modern fittings, space-age fireplaces, and a mélange of influences from India and Africa. Eco concerns are paramount, and dishes at the restaurant incorporate organic produce from the hotel’s farm. Enjoy drinks around the fire circle, book one of their unique experiences (such as mussel harvesting), or head to the beach to surf or paddleboard. There are villas for families too. Total indulgence.
South Lisbon Coast
Ha Mar ao Luar, Setúbal
Best for: Rustic escapism at great prices
Closest beach: Albarquel (1.5km)
Summer prices: from £100 per room per night
The views from these quirky hideaways are intoxicating. You’re high up in the hills above the Fort of Sao Filipe in Setúbal, overlooking the sweeping arc of the Tróia peninsular – great for beaches, Roman ruins, golfing and birdwatching. Expect a rustic, homely vibe. There are suites in the main house, a couple of hideaways in the garden and even a windmill to sleep in, and breakfast is left in your fridge each evening, so you can surface whenever you please.
Sublime Comporta, near Comporta
Best for: Stylish luxury in the woods
Closest beach: Carvalhal and Pego (10km)
Summer prices: from £391 per room per night
Oozing style throughout, this luxurious haven near fashionable Comporta spans 17 acres of fragrant pine forest that backs the deserted coastline. Dispersed among the trees are 23 rooms and suites, 22 sleek cabins, a glass-fronted restaurant, a solar-heated pool and an expansive spa. The local beaches are among Portugal’s most beautiful, and they’re within a 10-minute drive.
